Today's postings
- [Baren 44489] RE: Types of wood used in carving ("Terry Sargent Peart")
- [Baren 44490] oil based inks (Barbara Mason)
- [Baren 44491] RE: oil based inks ("Maria Arango Diener")
- [Baren 44492] Tube or can ink-wood used to carve (Marilynn Smith)
Message 1
From: "Terry Sargent Peart"
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 15:52:37 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44489] RE: Types of wood used in carving
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I've been using Basswood - very easy to carve and yet it seems to hold up.
I used it on my 100 tiny prints (printed at least 160).
Terry P
West Seattle
www.terrypeart.blogspot.com (see my little print here)
>I would love to hear from all of you and maybe we could put together a list
>of wood types that we have found suitable and interesting to carve
>
>Marilynn
I used it on my 100 tiny prints (printed at least 160).
Terry P
West Seattle
www.terrypeart.blogspot.com (see my little print here)
>I would love to hear from all of you and maybe we could put together a list
>of wood types that we have found suitable and interesting to carve
>
>Marilynn
Message 2
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 16:57:11 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44490] oil based inks
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Guadalupe,
I never use cobalt dryer, however it depends on how you print. I use lots of transparent layers and never have had a problem with ink drying. If you use lots of opaque layers, a little dryer can help a lot. Be sure to use only a drop or two, drop from the end of a stick into the ink and mix. Cobalt dryer is deadly poison so do not get it on your skin.
A little miracle gel or setswell will will loosen the ink in almost the same manner as burnt plate oil and make it roll out easier. Transparent base or medium will give you less opacity in the ink but will not usually lighten the color much unless you use a huge amount of it with the ink, more than 50%.
The transparent base or medium and the miracle gel lasts a really long time so you do not need to buy it very often. I use ink in cans, but you do need to keep a waxed paper or plastic layer over the top of the ink to keep the air out of it. I have not used tubes but know people who buy ink in cartridges and squeeze it out with a caulking gun. It keeps a very long time this way but for me it is harder to store and more awkward to use.
I have switched to Akua Intaglio water based inks as they are safe and I find that after working with them for a few years I can get them to do what I want them to do. But I do miss the wonderful smell of oil based ink! And I admit to using it occasionally.
My best
Barbara
I never use cobalt dryer, however it depends on how you print. I use lots of transparent layers and never have had a problem with ink drying. If you use lots of opaque layers, a little dryer can help a lot. Be sure to use only a drop or two, drop from the end of a stick into the ink and mix. Cobalt dryer is deadly poison so do not get it on your skin.
A little miracle gel or setswell will will loosen the ink in almost the same manner as burnt plate oil and make it roll out easier. Transparent base or medium will give you less opacity in the ink but will not usually lighten the color much unless you use a huge amount of it with the ink, more than 50%.
The transparent base or medium and the miracle gel lasts a really long time so you do not need to buy it very often. I use ink in cans, but you do need to keep a waxed paper or plastic layer over the top of the ink to keep the air out of it. I have not used tubes but know people who buy ink in cartridges and squeeze it out with a caulking gun. It keeps a very long time this way but for me it is harder to store and more awkward to use.
I have switched to Akua Intaglio water based inks as they are safe and I find that after working with them for a few years I can get them to do what I want them to do. But I do miss the wonderful smell of oil based ink! And I admit to using it occasionally.
My best
Barbara
Message 3
From: "Maria Arango Diener"
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 17:13:26 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44491] RE: oil based inks
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Guadalupe, here is some information on some of the additives for oil based
inks. I wrote the page in the context of using metallic inks but the
additives (half way down the page) are described.
http://1000woodcuts.com/Studionotes/metallicink.html
I actually like the consistency of Daniel Smith oil based inks about the
best, straight out of the tube.
I do use cobalt drier or Japan drier sometimes when layering or when
deadlines approach to get prints to dry in about four hours.
I would recommend for sure the transparent medium.
Which reminds me -- back in the studio!
Maria
[=o=][=o=][=o=][=o=]
www.1000woodcuts.com
www.artfestivalguide.info
[=o=][=o=][=o=][=o=]
On Oct 27, 2011, at 12:04 PM, Guadalupe Victorica
wrote:
I have been using oil ink and cleanning with the advice of Charles Morgan
and Maria Arango (cooking oil, wet ones and orange glow).
I am in the process of buying oil inks. I need advice if to buy in a can or
a tube. Besides price and practicality are there any other reasons to buy
either or? Should I buy MIracle gel, transparent medium and cobalt dryer?
thank you all.
Saludos, Guadalupe
Fourth International Prints for Peace 2011, Third International Printmaking
Collective 2011
http://www.printsforpeacemexico.blogspot.com/
inks. I wrote the page in the context of using metallic inks but the
additives (half way down the page) are described.
http://1000woodcuts.com/Studionotes/metallicink.html
I actually like the consistency of Daniel Smith oil based inks about the
best, straight out of the tube.
I do use cobalt drier or Japan drier sometimes when layering or when
deadlines approach to get prints to dry in about four hours.
I would recommend for sure the transparent medium.
Which reminds me -- back in the studio!
Maria
[=o=][=o=][=o=][=o=]
www.1000woodcuts.com
www.artfestivalguide.info
[=o=][=o=][=o=][=o=]
On Oct 27, 2011, at 12:04 PM, Guadalupe Victorica
wrote:
I have been using oil ink and cleanning with the advice of Charles Morgan
and Maria Arango (cooking oil, wet ones and orange glow).
I am in the process of buying oil inks. I need advice if to buy in a can or
a tube. Besides price and practicality are there any other reasons to buy
either or? Should I buy MIracle gel, transparent medium and cobalt dryer?
thank you all.
Saludos, Guadalupe
Fourth International Prints for Peace 2011, Third International Printmaking
Collective 2011
http://www.printsforpeacemexico.blogspot.com/
Message 4
From: Marilynn Smith
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 18:01:11 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44492] Tube or can ink-wood used to carve
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Guadalupe, I prefer tube ink. I find the cans dry out. Also, if you
are in a warm climate you may find the cans dry out faster than in a
cooler climate. I even ordered a can one time that came all dried out.
If you use a lot of black or any single color it might be okay to
purchase the cans. For colors you use infrequently definitely go with
the tubes. I like miracle gel and find a can lasts a long time. It
will thin out the ink. Some times one wants more transparency and if
you often find yourself in a situation where you need things to dry
fast you could get the cobalt drier. I personally have never used drier.
The list of woods is interesting. I will keep track and send it out to
the forum. The best part is telling us about how the wood performs. It
was interesting to hear that, "You get a different look to your print
with poplar than with cherry. It's more energetic looking,"
interesting comment Gayle. And further, " Key saying, "my bro-in-law
who is a wood worker and Japanese too, said that end cut (cross cut)
Douglas Fir would be very much like end cut (cross cut ?) Cherry." I
have never had occasion to use cross cut, but living in douglas fir
country that could be useful information. I enjoyed hearing each of
your comments and the woods you favor. It's good to know which woods
do well in dry climates. The piece of Myrtle wood I carved my rabbit
in dried out and even had a small crack in it after sitting some time
in the warmer Baja climate. Now back in the pacific northwest the
moisture is healing up the cracks. Some woods contain more oils, some
are softer, some are harder, some splinter like mad and some carve
like butter. In my opinion each chunk I pick up seems to have its own
idiosyncrasies. And some smell good!
Marilynn
are in a warm climate you may find the cans dry out faster than in a
cooler climate. I even ordered a can one time that came all dried out.
If you use a lot of black or any single color it might be okay to
purchase the cans. For colors you use infrequently definitely go with
the tubes. I like miracle gel and find a can lasts a long time. It
will thin out the ink. Some times one wants more transparency and if
you often find yourself in a situation where you need things to dry
fast you could get the cobalt drier. I personally have never used drier.
The list of woods is interesting. I will keep track and send it out to
the forum. The best part is telling us about how the wood performs. It
was interesting to hear that, "You get a different look to your print
with poplar than with cherry. It's more energetic looking,"
interesting comment Gayle. And further, " Key saying, "my bro-in-law
who is a wood worker and Japanese too, said that end cut (cross cut)
Douglas Fir would be very much like end cut (cross cut ?) Cherry." I
have never had occasion to use cross cut, but living in douglas fir
country that could be useful information. I enjoyed hearing each of
your comments and the woods you favor. It's good to know which woods
do well in dry climates. The piece of Myrtle wood I carved my rabbit
in dried out and even had a small crack in it after sitting some time
in the warmer Baja climate. Now back in the pacific northwest the
moisture is healing up the cracks. Some woods contain more oils, some
are softer, some are harder, some splinter like mad and some carve
like butter. In my opinion each chunk I pick up seems to have its own
idiosyncrasies. And some smell good!
Marilynn