Today's postings

  1. [Baren 44250] Re: Oil based reduction prints generally printed on dampened or dry paper? (Phil Hillmer)
  2. [Baren 44251] Numbered edition of prints - ethical question... (Phil Hillmer)
  3. [Baren 44252] Re: Numbered edition of prints - ethical question... (Diane Cutter)
  4. [Baren 44253] reduction print (Marilynn Smith)
  5. [Baren 44254] Re: Oil based reduction prints generally printed on dampened or dry paper? (Sharri LaPierre)
  6. [Baren 44255] Inspired by Japan: exhibition in Johannesburg (Masako Osada)
  7. [Baren 44256] Packing - shipping prints question... (Phil Hillmer)
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Message 1
From: Phil Hillmer
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 13:43:36 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44250] Re: Oil based reduction prints generally printed on dampened or dry paper?
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Yeah I forgot to mention I am using an etching press for this print.
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Message 2
From: Phil Hillmer
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 13:55:31 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44251] Numbered edition of prints - ethical question...
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Hi,

I have been wondering what the general procedure is for numbered prints.

Specifically, lets say I am doing a woodcut and decide to run an edition of
....oh say 50 or 100 prints - since after repeated test prints the blocks
are holding up just fabulously and know I can get that many prints out of
them, but that's all I plan to do for the life of the print. So in starting
out, I only have maybe 10 or 20 sheets of paper left so I run off ten
prints, number them 1/100, 2/100, etc up to 10/100 or how many good prints I
have, then start selling them.

So specifically my question is, is this how many printmakers do it? Or do
you run a full edition of the 50 or 100 or 123 etc etc what ever, then
number the complete edition, and then offer them for sale once all are
printed?

Just want to make sure I do the right thing...
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Message 3
From: Diane Cutter
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 14:38:50 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44252] Re: Numbered edition of prints - ethical question...
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Phil...

As many here at Baren know, I have issues with mold and mildew here in Puerto Rico. Pulling a large edition and keeping it around for a lengthy time is costly since, learning the hard way, I have had to toss out more than half the edition years back.

So I do exactly as you describe. But I make sure that I have all the appropriate information so I can pull additional prints many months/years later that are exactly the same as the first pulled. I write that information with a sharpie on the back of the block: title, date, edition #s, paper, ink, pressure if with press or whether I used a baren and what kind (bamboo, ball-bearing), number of prints pulled so far, any comments regarding the print. I do keep the info in another file but have learned that having it on the block is much more reasonable and never strays, the info always at my fingertips.


The only time I pull an entire edition would be for an exchange where I might pull 10-15 more than the exchange. But, then again, I might only pull 5 extra and pull others as needed.

That is the beauty of being a printmaker doing your own pulls. And if this were considered improper, you have lots of company among the rest of us who pull partial editions because of cost/weather limitations.


Diane

www.DianeCutter.com
www.theitinerantartist.blogspot.com
www.DCutter.etsy.com

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Message 4
From: Marilynn Smith
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 15:39:51 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44253] reduction print
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Hi,

I have done reduction prints. Only used dry paper and usually arches
88, with a press.
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Message 5
From: Sharri LaPierre
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 16:52:45 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44254] Re: Oil based reduction prints generally printed on dampened or dry paper?
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Phil,
I've used both damp and dry paper for reduction prints with up to 15
colors, oil based etching ink is my preferred modus operendi. I print
wet into wet and keep the paper damp in a paper pack. The secret is
very thin applications of ink and on the latter layers to blot the
print with a paper towel immediately after printing (to remove excess
ink). In the end, though, you just have to experiment and find what
works for you - there are a million ways to go about this and none are
wrong. The mini-print for the #50 exchange was done on dry paper,
Sommerset Satin, and I had no problems with drying or the paper
accepting the ink. And now it is done and going in the mail today!
Yahoo!!!

Cheers ~
Sharri
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Message 6
From: Masako Osada
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 12:05:07 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44255] Inspired by Japan: exhibition in Johannesburg
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Hi all,

The "Inspired by Japan" exhibition in Johannesburg, hosted by the Centre
for Japanese Studies, was a great success, selling 50 prints in total. A
Japanese martial group in Cape Town is going take unsold prints and have
their own exhibition in late October. In late November, an Austrian
lady, who runs a social group for expatriates in Johannesburg, is
planning to have an evening of a print exhibition and a talk about
Japanese printmaking.

Masako
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Message 7
From: Phil Hillmer
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 12:50:52 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44256] Packing - shipping prints question...
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Shipping prints question...

I was wondering after taping a print to foam or matt board and sandwiching a
print between card board as Barbara suggested, do you folks wrap up the
bundle in brown shipping paper, or put it in an over sized envelope? Or do
you just tape up the edges of the card board and use that as the outer
package?

Also do any of you use those clearbags brand - type bags to put your prints
in? Or is that overkill compared to Glassine?

I remember reading somewhere a few years ago to sandwich prints between MDF
or Masonite to prevent bending, but that of course significantly raises the
shipping costs due to weight. Is Post Office reliable as far as damage is
concerned or do you folks use UPS?