Today's postings
- < (Lana Lambert)
- [Baren 37982] Re: cherry blocks (Graham Scholes)
- [Baren 37983] Re: Cherry Blocks ("rsimola # netzero.net")
- [Baren 37984] Re: Cherry Blocks (a stark)
- [Baren 37985] Re: cherry blocks (eli griggs)
- [Baren 37986] Re: Interesting use for woodcuts (aqua4tis # aol.com)
Message 1
From: Lana Lambert
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 14:26:51 GMT
Subject:
Send Message: To this poster
Omg, that video was awesome but it made my hands and eyes hurt for the artist that did all that!
-Lana
-Lana
Message 2
From: Graham Scholes
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 14:37:24 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37982] Re: cherry blocks
Send Message: To this poster
A little heads up...
The ends of wood are waxed to prevent cracking... not warping.
Warping depends on how the wood it was dried and milling (boarding)
Graham
The ends of wood are waxed to prevent cracking... not warping.
Warping depends on how the wood it was dried and milling (boarding)
Graham
Message 3
From: "rsimola # netzero.net"
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 16:14:26 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37983] Re: Cherry Blocks
Send Message: To this poster
>very excited about starting a new adventure with the cherry block.
>I'd really appreciate any comments regarding cherry blocks that
>anyone has to offer...
I have been using cherry wood exclusively for my last dozen projects. I love its working qualities, and for some reason, holding and viewing the finished cherry wood blocks is more satisfying than it is with linoleum. Since I have the tools, I buy cherry wood planks at my local lumber yard, cut them to the size I want them, and sand them to both smooth them to a satin finish and to remove any cupping or bowing. The whole process takes a surprisingly short period of time. I just finished turning a plank into blocks, and for a couple of hours of work I now have enough blocks to last me most of the year. In addition, each block ends up costing me less that it would cost me to buy unmounted linoleum. One thing I have noticed is that the wood carves more easily if I first rub it with mineral oil. Other oils will probably work also, but I tried linseed oil once, and it was a disaster. It seems linseed oil makes wood harder after it has soaked into the wood and dried.
Robert Simola, Ph.D.
Craftsman, gardener, grape grower, Chaucer collector,
. . . and retired teacher
>I'd really appreciate any comments regarding cherry blocks that
>anyone has to offer...
I have been using cherry wood exclusively for my last dozen projects. I love its working qualities, and for some reason, holding and viewing the finished cherry wood blocks is more satisfying than it is with linoleum. Since I have the tools, I buy cherry wood planks at my local lumber yard, cut them to the size I want them, and sand them to both smooth them to a satin finish and to remove any cupping or bowing. The whole process takes a surprisingly short period of time. I just finished turning a plank into blocks, and for a couple of hours of work I now have enough blocks to last me most of the year. In addition, each block ends up costing me less that it would cost me to buy unmounted linoleum. One thing I have noticed is that the wood carves more easily if I first rub it with mineral oil. Other oils will probably work also, but I tried linseed oil once, and it was a disaster. It seems linseed oil makes wood harder after it has soaked into the wood and dried.
Robert Simola, Ph.D.
Craftsman, gardener, grape grower, Chaucer collector,
. . . and retired teacher
Message 4
From: a stark
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 19:15:32 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37984] Re: Cherry Blocks
Send Message: To this poster
cherry wood is awesome, but i've found it to be a bit inconsistent in quality. so far maple is far and away my favorite for fine lines, durability and consistency of grain.
i'll have to try that mineral oil idea, thanks.
i'll have to try that mineral oil idea, thanks.
Message 5
From: eli griggs
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 19:42:09 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37985] Re: cherry blocks
Send Message: To this poster
Sometimes patches are needed; here's my method of
keeping patch material on hand while carving. Please
note, I could take this from the back of the block,
but I want to keep that area untouched in case I want
to carve a second design and I like to use wood from
the same surface when posable which I see as a good
practice.
This technique assumes that your design has corner
areas that can be used. Just before you begin to
carve the block, take a Japanese back-saw, a Dozuki,
and saw a thin flat of waste wood from a corner.
This section can be about 1/8th inch thick or slightly
thicker, and as wide as posable, given the block
design and reach of the saw. If you can do this to
two or more corners, do so and have spare material on
hand for future projects that won't allow for corners
to be taken.
Reserve this piece in case you have to replace a
section because of a break-through or other
unintentional removal of a printing area. If needed,
patches can be made by gluing in suitable bits,
planed, filed or sanded to the correct thickness by
taking double-stick tape, carpet tape will do nicely,
applying it to the surface to be printed and sticking
this to a secure work surface, such as a flat board,
granite block or thick glass pane.
If you use a small block plane, simply take fine
shavings from the back until it is the correct,
uniform thickness. If using a flat file, do the same,
gently. A firm sanding block with 100 grit material,
no coarser, should serve well enough if you want to
use glass paper. Just keep the back level and take
the thickness of the tape into account. Marking the
high spots with a Sharpie will help some with removal.
When the patch is the correct thickness, remove the
tape, and glue it into your prepared block with
yellow or white glue or gel-type 'super glue' designed
for woodworkers and when COMPLETELY SET, resume
carving. If necessary, non-shrink wood filler can be
used to fill deeper gaps and the patch can be glued on
top of this.
Cheers
keeping patch material on hand while carving. Please
note, I could take this from the back of the block,
but I want to keep that area untouched in case I want
to carve a second design and I like to use wood from
the same surface when posable which I see as a good
practice.
This technique assumes that your design has corner
areas that can be used. Just before you begin to
carve the block, take a Japanese back-saw, a Dozuki,
and saw a thin flat of waste wood from a corner.
This section can be about 1/8th inch thick or slightly
thicker, and as wide as posable, given the block
design and reach of the saw. If you can do this to
two or more corners, do so and have spare material on
hand for future projects that won't allow for corners
to be taken.
Reserve this piece in case you have to replace a
section because of a break-through or other
unintentional removal of a printing area. If needed,
patches can be made by gluing in suitable bits,
planed, filed or sanded to the correct thickness by
taking double-stick tape, carpet tape will do nicely,
applying it to the surface to be printed and sticking
this to a secure work surface, such as a flat board,
granite block or thick glass pane.
If you use a small block plane, simply take fine
shavings from the back until it is the correct,
uniform thickness. If using a flat file, do the same,
gently. A firm sanding block with 100 grit material,
no coarser, should serve well enough if you want to
use glass paper. Just keep the back level and take
the thickness of the tape into account. Marking the
high spots with a Sharpie will help some with removal.
When the patch is the correct thickness, remove the
tape, and glue it into your prepared block with
yellow or white glue or gel-type 'super glue' designed
for woodworkers and when COMPLETELY SET, resume
carving. If necessary, non-shrink wood filler can be
used to fill deeper gaps and the patch can be glued on
top of this.
Cheers
Message 6
From: aqua4tis # aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 00:07:15 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37986] Re: Interesting use for woodcuts
Send Message: To this poster
this is cool