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Message 1
From: Linda Beeman
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 14:15:03 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37496] exchange #39
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Maybe I have OCD or something but I have my blocks carved and did my test print yesterday to check colors, etc. I am very excited about being in my first exchange and I'll be so disappointed if there are dropouts at the last minute.............
What happens if those on the waiting list also prepare prints and then all 30 people follow thru? Has that ever happened? I'd hate to have their prints "go to waste", so to speak.

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Message 2
From: "Maria Arango"
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 15:52:11 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37497] RE: exchange #39
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Wonderful!

Way ahead of me, I have an image ready to go on the hanshita paper from the
Baren mall which should be here any day now.
I'm only aware of once when I coordinated and John Center was on the waiting
list; he sent his extra set of prints and expected nothing in return.
Everyone got a bonus and he received some extra prints that people sent. But
of course he is a rare (and generous) bird!

Signing up for the waiting list sort of does carry a risk that a participant
will prepare prints and will not get to participate. But much more likely
there will be late dropouts like we are having now and the coordination crew
is forced to either recruit someone to rush 30 prints or leave the exchange
short.

Besides, hand-pulled prints never "go to waste", they always find a good
place to travel to, like to friends and family as Christmas presents, are
sold on an art festival, get placed on Etsy to find new homes, get donated
to charity auctions, sold to benefit a cause, exhibited...

Maria

Please change my email address to:
1000woodcuts [at] gmail [dot] com
O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O
       Maria Arango
  http://1000woodcuts.com
http://artfestivalguide.info
 O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O

Maybe I have OCD or something but I have my blocks carved and did my test
print yesterday to check colors, etc.  I am very excited about being in my
first exchange and I'll be so disappointed if there are dropouts at the last
minute.............
What happens if those on the waiting list also prepare prints and then all
30 people follow thru?  Has that ever happened?  I'd hate to have their
prints "go to waste", so to speak.
 
 
 
> This makes it so much more imperative that those signed up for Exchange
#39
> start their prints NOW, since moku-hanga is a multiple block, multiple
> color, hand-printed technique.
> Exchange #39 now has two people on the waiting list and I would highly
> recommend that everyone prepares prints.
>
> Let's boogie!
> Maria

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Message 3
From: mpereira # newsite.com.br
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 16:49:30 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37498] Re: Exchange 38 arrivals
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mr coordinator
please tell if my prints have arrived.
thank you.
murilo (brazil)

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Message 4
From: Graham Scholes
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 17:06:18 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37499] Shark skin....
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Dave Bull wrote:

>> Here's a quick run at a brush tonight ... My upstairs computer
>> desk isn't where I usually do this, but anyway, just to get some
>> quick photos ...
>
> And a closeup of the hairs ... some tapered, some split ...
> http://woodblock.com/temporary/brush/close_up.jpg

All sharks are not made equal....

Have a look at this shark skin... I purchased this from Japan for
$200.00
www.woodblockart.ca/bootcamp/Shark-skin.jpg

It will NOT split the hair as David has indicated.

WHAT GIVES???????

Sez he shouting and going off to his studio...
which he is enlarging by 300 sq fts....

Graham

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Message 5
From: Julio.Rodriguez # walgreens.com
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 17:15:25 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37500] Re: exchange #39
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"Signing up for the waiting list sort of does carry a risk that a
participant
will prepare prints and will not get to participate."

Linda,

The alternating oban, chuban and other sizes allows helps out here. The
oban (10X15") and chuban (7.5X10") prints exchanges will eventually pop up
again every third exchange and prints adhering to those sizes can be used
for a later exchange of the same size. For example if you made an oban
print for a theme exchange but you were left out on the waiting list you
can use it three exchanges later when the oban no-theme exchange comes up.
If you made an oban print for a non-theme exchange but were left out you
can use it next time an oban non-theme exchange comes up which should be
six exchanges later.

The only special case is when we have 'other' or 'special size' like #39.
Those may take a while (if ever) to surface again in an exchange.

Julio

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Message 6
From: Lester Doré
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 18:20:08 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37501] Re: baren printing vs. press printing
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Thanks, Sharri (And thanks to those who contacted me about this
privately.)

That really takes a load off my mind. I've never been a particularly
good printer (except when I had access to a Vandercook) though of
course I want to get better. But in the meantime I want to deliver a
decent print to those who participate in the exchanges. That said, I'm
dropping out of Exchange #39 today--heeding warnings not to reinjure
my shoulder during its recovery from the surgery. Dang! But there'll
always be opportunities...

As for baseball, I was never a very good pitcher, but If I do my rehab
religiously I should be able to play catch with my grandson in a year
or so.

>
> To answer your question re: what is a handpulled
> print. My definition is that the matrix has been cut, etched,
> engraved, stenciled, photo-etched, drawn on a litho stone, etc., by
> the artist's hand. How it makes it to the paper is incidental.
>
> Good luck with the rotator cuff recovery. I guess this means your
> baseball years are over?
>
> Cheers ~
> Sharri
>
>

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Message 7
From: "Maria Arango"
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 20:45:01 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37502] hanshita paper from the Baren Mall
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I just got my shipment of yummy Hosho paper from Matsumura, which included a
few sheets of hanshita paper.
Could someone that has used this or knows how please clarify for me:
-Which side I draw or print on? There is a thick sheet and a thinner sheet,
which one peels off and which one stays pasted on the block? I'm leaning
toward the thin sheet on the block?
-Anyone tried this with an inkjet printer? I have my drawing all doodled up
and can either transfer by hand or scan and print on the hanshita, which
would be much quicker and exact, as far as the kentos go.

Thanks mucho,
Maria

O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O
       Maria Arango
  http://1000woodcuts.com
http://artfestivalguide.info
 O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O=O

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Message 8
From: ArtSpotiB # aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 20:45:56 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37503] Re: Exchange 38 arrivals
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Dear Friends.

If you have not seen your name released in the emails to the group, your
print has not arrived.

Thank you for your attention.

ArtSpot Out
Benny Alba in studio



"It is neither wealth nor splendor, but tranquility and
occupation, which give happiness."
--Thomas Jefferson

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Message 9
From: "Mike Lyon"
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 21:16:08 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37504] RE: hanshita paper from the Baren Mall
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Draw on the thin side, paste it ink-side (thin side) onto your block, when
dry, peel off thick paper and carve. It prints OK in inkjet and laser if
it's the same stuff I used some years back. Computer printers can cause
some mis-registration between copies if there's any roller slippage (duh)!

-- Mike

Mike Lyon
Kansas City, MO
http://mlyon.com

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Message 10
From: "rsimola # netzero.net"
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 22:09:26 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37505] Re: hanshita paper from the Baren Mall
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>I just got my shipment of yummy Hosho paper from Matsumura, which >included a few sheets of hanshita paper. Could someone that has used
>this or knows how please clarify for me: -Which side I draw or print on? >There is a thick sheet and a thinner sheet, which one peels off and
>which one stays pasted on the block? I'm leaning toward the thin sheet
>on the block? -Anyone tried this with an inkjet printer? I have my >drawing all doodled up and can either transfer by hand or scan and print >on the hanshita, which would be much quicker and exact, as far as the >kentos go.

Maria,

Have you tried using a t-shirt transfer to put your designs on your blocks? I started doing this recently, and it has worked very well for me. I just scan in my design and then print it out with my ink-jet printer. Not only does it take much less time than physically re-drawing the design with tracing paper, but I am able to get much finer detail.


Robert Simola, Ph.D.
Chaucer collector, craftsman, gardener, grape grower,
. . . and retired teacher

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Message 11
From: ArtSpotiB # aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 23:02:34 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37507] Lester Dore, arrived!
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Moments after posting another arrival...

Your prints have arrived.

ArtSpot Out
BA in studio



"It is neither wealth nor splendor, but tranquility and
occupation, which give happiness."
--Thomas Jefferson

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Message 12
From: ArtSpotiB # aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 23:02:47 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37506] Oscar B, prints arrived
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Hooray!

Looking forward to peeking inside.

ONLY 7 more to come in... You'll see it all after Xmas!

ArtSpot Out
BA in studio


"It is neither wealth nor splendor, but tranquility and
occupation, which give happiness."
--Thomas Jefferson

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Message 13
From: Laurence Phelps
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 23:18:02 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37508] knife handedness
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Here is a technical question for more experienced cutters. Over a
year ago, as I was starting to work more on prints, I bought two
knives. I had used an exacto knife in the printmaking class I took in
Madison and liked it, but fell in love with the Japanese tools my
brother Dale had. I am right handed, so bought two knives from
McClains. Now, these knives have a flat side and a beveled side.
Looking down them along the longer of the two narrow edges, the bevel
may be on the right or on the left. The two knives I bought, both
labelled as right handed, differed on the side of the bevel as just
described, one with the bevel to the right and one to the left. I am
comfortable pulling the knife toward me, leaving the surface to be
printed on the right. Depending on the knife, that means having the
flat or beveled side towards the printed remnant. I think I prefer
using the knife that puts the flat side towards the printed surface.
In most of the pictures I can find showing carving it ise very
difficult to determine whiuch side the bevel is directed towards.
Then I read the two sources quoted below: (the first is ambiguous,
the second quite clear)

“The flat side of the knife should always be against the line to be
cut.” (Ross/Romano/Ross, The complete printmaker)

“The hangito is held almost upright with just the tip in the wood,
and the bevel side facing the area to be retained for
printing.” (Rebecca Salter, Japanese Woodblock Printing)

I would be interested in the opinions of some of you more experienced
printers as to which is preferable in the long run.

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Message 14
From: Dave Bull
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 23:27:49 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37509] Re: knife handedness
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We've been over this ground a number of times before, so a dig in the
archives may be worth the time ...

> “The flat side of the knife should always be against the line to be
> cut.” (Ross/Romano/Ross, The complete printmaker)

This is correct. When doing _delicate_ work, that will need sharp
registration, it is critical that the flat side be against the line. If
you're cutting rougher colour blocks on plywood or something, then it
might not make much difference.

Fine lines carved with the bevel against the wood will almost always
expand again when printing, due to the compression added by the bevel
...

Dave

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Message 15
From: ArtfulCarol # aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:39:30 GMT
Subject: [Baren 37510] Re: knife handedness
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Looking at my sets of knives, I see I have
2 tohs with bevel on the left
1 toh with bevel on the right
1 toh with bevel on both sides.

I am left handed

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