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Message 1
From: Annie Bissett
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 09:31:15 -0400
Subject: [Baren 36075] Re: Stencils
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Hi Louise,

I've never used the pochoir method, where stencils are used to apply
color directly to the print, but I have used acetate stencils to mask
portions of a cut block. Is this what you're doing? I use the
stencils a couple of different ways. One is to apply color to the
block through the stencil and then remove the stencil and print. The
other method is to put pigment on the block and then print with the
stencil in place. Each method makes a different kind of edge, both a
little bit soft. It's a great way of maximizing your blocks and if
you want a perfectly identical edition, you can cut the acetate so it
registers to your kento.

Annie

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Message 2
From: L Cass
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 10:57:28 -0400
Subject: [Baren 36076] Re: Stencils
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Annie - I'm using your 1st method - applying colour to the block
thru' the stencil which I remove for printing -
the registration is more or less okay as my block lies within a 2 1/2
" wood frame' and I align the papers
with pen marks on the wood - (I always forget to allow for kento cuts
on the blocks) Wouldn't your
2nd method be rather tricky ? I'd imagine difficulty with printing
paper slipping around over the acetate ..

Charles, I'm aware that a 'pochoir' is a stencil and would assume
that you used these on your papers rather
than on the block before printing? shouldn't we invent a new term for
the latter or is there one? Since I used
to hand colour on my western style prints, I'm now really enjoying
printing colours Japanese style but it
does take several over printings to obtain enough intensity or does
anyone have a secret for achieving
this in one go??

Louise

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Message 3
From: Julio.Rodriguez # walgreens.com
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 10:39:55 -0500
Subject: [Baren 36077] Re: Stencils
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"I'm now really enjoying printing colours Japanese style but it does take
several over printings to obtain enough intensity or does anyone have a
secret for achieving this in one go??"

based on my experience there is a few factors that need to come together
to get intense colors doing the Japanese technique....right paper, right
moisture on paper, good brush saturation, good deep rubbing technique with
baren and probably most important good pigments. Even then you may still
need a second or third impression to achieve nice deep colors in large
areas. I have tried different brands of woodblock colors, watercolors,
etc....and for the money the powder pigments that we sell at the baren
mall give me the best color saturation.

Julio Rodriguez (Skokie, Illinois)

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Message 4
From: Charles Morgan
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 09:26:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 36078] Re: Stencils
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Hello Louise,
 
Yes, I was using stencils on the paper and inking the paper directly, rather than inking the block through a stencil.
 
I have not used stencils to ink a woodblock, but I have used them to ink etching plates. First I ink and wipe the plate to put ink in the lines and aquatint areas, and then wipe it. I then use a stencil to apply ink to the clean areas of the plate. This technique works quite well for achieving multiple colors with one pass on etchings. It should work much the same way with woodblock, I would think.
Cheers ..... Charles

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Message 5
From: Sharri LaPierre
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 15:06:09 -0700
Subject: [Baren 36079] Re: Using driers
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David,
In a previous life I used to use cobalt drier, but have since
discovered that if I "blot" each print with a paper towel or newsprint
directly after printing and then leave it to air dry it will be
surface dry the following day, or maybe two if it is raining. Our
weather in Western WA State is similar to UK. If you have a week to
spare they will be more than dry enough to send out the door. I use
etching inks for relief printing and alter them with a little gel
reducer so they are not as thick as regular block printing inks, and I
print onto wet paper, but I think this method will work well no matter
what ink you use and whether you print wet or dry. Since my paper is
damp I usually leave them in weighted blotters for 24 hrs. (changing
blotters every half hour the first hour or two, depending upon my
energy level) and then leave them out to finish air drying. Good
luck! and my advice is to forego the drier if you can. It is toxic.
What eats plastic is probably not good for you, either. ;-)

Cheers ~
Sharri

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Message 6
From: David Harrison
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 00:34:59 +0100
Subject: [Baren 36080] Re: Using driers
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Thanks Sharri, and everyone for the advice.

I'll weigh everything up before the printing. But at least you've all given me
plenty of options to get the exchange in on time!

All the best,

David

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Message 7
From: Shawn + Elizabeth Newton
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 16:44:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 36081] Re: Using driers
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my problem with the cobalt being toxic is that lots of stuff is toxic. engine oil, carb cleaner, paint thinner, roach spray, the mercury in those little halogen lamps and neon, sharpey marker ink, etc etc. there's a jillion things in your house that would kill you if you ate it, whether or not it eats plastic. point is, you don't eat the stuff. and how long will you be exposed to it? 2 minutes? 20 seconds? when i use my cobalt, i take of the lid, stick in a paint stick, pull it out, close the lid. 5 seconds. i don't feel bad about. i'd rather work with that than spray oven cleaner in my house. or clean something with ammonia. i guess i just think all the extra talk about toxicity is silly. of course it's toxic, everything is.

:-)

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Message 8
From: Charles Morgan
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 17:39:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 36082] Re: Using driers
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Exercise prudence, reduce exposure whenever possible, avoid inhalation, avoid skin contact, use some common sense.
Indeed, almost everything in your house is a toxin if given in the proper way and in the proper dose. The LD50 (dose at which about 50% of subjects die) for common table salt is about 1 teacup for the average adult human. Gulp down a teacupful of table salt and you are very likely to die. Thankfully, table salt is not cummulative in the body ... so we can take a little at breakfast, a little at lunch, a little at supper, etc. You need some salt in order to live, but too much is very harmful. I doubt that finding out that table salt is "toxic" is going to lead many of you to rush to your kitchen and throw out all your salt.
Some toxins like mercury are cummulative, so we should avoid all exposure to cummulative toxins.
For cobalt driers, avoid skin contact, avoid inhalation, do not drink the stuff. Using a drop or two in your ink once in a while is not likely to harm you.
For specific information, I checked the MSDS information for cobalt driers from a number of manufacturers ... you can get this on-line; just Google: msds cobalt drier. The stuff certainly does not appear to be as toxic as I have been led to believe. The following is quite typical of what I found:
POTENTIAL HEALTH EFFECTS
 
Eye Contact: May cause slight irritation
 
Inhalation: Remove to fresh air
 
Ingestion: Avoid ingestion - do NOT induce vomiting
 
Skin Contact: Prolonged or repeated contact can result in defatting and drying of the skin which may result in skin irritation and dermatitis ( rash )
 
Signs And Symptoms Of Exposure: Skin contact may result in dryness and/or irritation and dermatitis may develop
 
 4. FIRST AID MEASURES
Eye Contact: Hold eyelids apart and flush eyes with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes.
 
Inhalation: Remove to fresh air
 
Ingestion: If swallowed, do NOT induce vomiting. Give victim a glass of water or milk. Call a physician or poison control center immediately. Never give anything by mouth to an unconscious person.

Skin Contact: Wash affected area with soap and water. If irritation persists, get medical attention.
 
Aggravate Medical Conditions: N/A
 
Supplemental Health Information: None required
 
Another site said the following:
Can cause severe eye irritation. Prolonged skin contact can cause minor skin irritation. If swallowed can cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea.
So, I am not too worried about using a couple of drops of the stuff in my ink. But to each his/her own.
Cheers ...... Charles

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