I am so flattered to have been recommended by you, Barbara! But I am not so
sure I can really help much -- understanding seems to come mainly through
practice... David Bull is better at wood-grain-printing than I am and he
can probably offer advice from a much broader experience than I have...
OK -- we are talking about Japanese technique here, right? Water borne
pigments brushed onto the block rather than rolled?
In Luan and Spanish Cedar and Oak and Ash and Walnut, etc when the pigment
is brushed WITH the grain (so that pigment is scooped out of the open grain
and the grain does not print -- detail from reduction print from a Spanish
Cedar block:
http://mlyon.com/images/prone_detail.jpg The 'grainy' marks are
left by the relatively large open fiber bundles of the wood.
As with so many moku-hanga techniques, the OPPOSITE effect can also be
achieved by brushing ACROSS the grain so that the pigment pools in the open
grain and prints DARKER than the surface area... -- the grain in the
background of
http://mlyon.com/blog/uploaded_images/2007_11_05_Jim_mokuhanga_proof_small.j
pg was printed that way -- a block of cherry was printed first in order to
lay down a relatively flat and grainless base, then a block of ash brushed
across the grain produced the very pronounced woodgrain in the background.
Other woods, notably birch, but shina as well, can print a PRONOUNCED grain
which echoes to some degree the patterns in the block (but only really
noticeable in large flat areas of color... Obtaining grain printing from
these woods is a function of variations in the absorbent properties of
different parts of the wood, with darker pigmentation being obtained from
more absorbent areas. So if the block is over damp or has lots of pigment
and paste brushed onto it, the effect won't be apparent. The most
pronounced grain in printing from this kind of wood is usually obtained from
multiple printings from the same block with very thin applications of
pigment in order to enhance the differences in moisture in the wood. I have
usually tried to avoid this kind of printing, but it shows up a bit in the
background of
http://mlyon.com/images/2003_07_14.jpg another reduction
print, this one from a basswood plank (similar species to shina). Some
pigments are better at reproducing grain than others -- a bit of sumi mixed
into a pigment which doesn't want to print grain will sometimes make it POP.
Here is a better example -- a Hiroshige landscape with pronounced and
beautiful woodgrain printing in the blue of the water --
http://www.viewingjapaneseprints.net/pics/ukiyoe/hiroshige_suwa.jpg
PASTE -- printing straight pigment without paste in brush or block SHOULD
give a pronounced goma-zuri (sesame seed printing) or grainy / dotty effect.
More paste and the goma or graininess will become smooth. Still more and
the brush marks will persist into the print.
Maybe something of this will help a bit?
-- Mike
Mike Lyon
Kansas City, MO
http://mlyon.com/blog