Today's postings
- [Baren 35317] Re: shipping framed prints within the US (Marissa)
- [Baren 35318] Resumes ("Lee Churchill")
- [Baren 35319] Re: shipping framed prints within the US (Barbara Mason)
- [Baren 35320] Re: shipping framed prints within the US (Kris Shanks)
- [Baren 35321] Re: juried shows and resumes (L Cass)
- [Baren 35322] RE: New Baren Digest (HTML) V42 #4272 (Mar 15, 2008) (guadalupe victorica reyes)
- [Baren 35323] shipping chit chat (ArtSpotiB # aol.com)
That sounds pretty cool but I have less than a month to get my work framed
and sent combined with everything else I barely have time to track down
boxes!
I'm thinking about dropping out at this point because I am feeling so
overwhelmed by the shipping.
And they are more than paper and ink to me.
It is a pretty promising show with a number of artists I have high respect
for but I don't know if I can do it on such a limited time frame. I was
asked over a month ago but got distracted by the baby and everything else
and then the curator/ owner had her own issues and now I have so little time
and the pieces for the show haven't even been picked. And they aren't the
best at communication.
If I am going to do this I need the simplest yet safest shipping method. I
am going to talk to a bike shop this week. There are two down the street
from me.
~marissa
On Mon, Mar 17, 2008 at 12:40 PM, Jurgen Stieler
wrote:
>
>
>Hello to all,
>
>an idea I practised when I sent glass framed pictures was to build an
>"art shipping box" from masonite and timer batten (hope that's expressed
>correctly). It sounds more difficult than it is - I let the DIY-store
>cut the masonite and built two simple frames from the timber batten,
>lower and upper rectangle. The masonite had been screwed to the frame -
>sides, bottom and cover (with less screws). The framed pictures were
>wrapped in bubble wrap, and the remaining room filled with crumpled
>newspaper. For a comparatively large box or to make it "bomb safe" you
>can add vertical parts between the two rectangular frames for the corners
>I had found examples of resumes online, but it was a bit harder to
>search for something like "resume for people that are just starting".
>I'm trying to build my resume through local shows, I have another piece
>in an April show, but that's after the submission deadline, so it can't
>be included. I also just got a few pieces accepted in consignment at a
>couple of galleries here, but don't know whether these are listable.
Hey All,
This is MHO on the resume topic.
EVERYTHING is 'listable' especially when you are starting out. It's all
about how you categorize.
All degrees/diplomas show commitment and focus, so list 'em! Just don't
go into tons of detail if they aren't hugely relevant, like with job
experience, list the most relevant, don't sweat it if it's not exact. My
experience is that places want resumes so that if a client asks for info
on you they have something on file. If your art stuff is lean you can
write info in your "goals/ artist statement" blurb about how you've
spent the last "x amount of time" committed to the development of your
art...like when applying for any job you want but aren't the perfect
candidate for you try and cover any gaps in your cover letter.
I know plenty of more experienced artists who won't list unjuried shows
on their resumes but I haven't got that many shows under my belt yet so
I just make sure it says "juried" and "unjuried" next to the listing.
I'd totally list "Works for sale in x and y galleries".
And of course you can list "Pending" events! (As long as you are pretty
certain that it is going to happen!) Academics do it all the time, if
they have a paper pre-accepted to a big conference, or if they are
writing a chapter for a book to be published soon, it goes down on the
CV. Just have a category for it - I list in reverse chronology, with
pending at the top, 2008 next, then 2007, etc.
Cheers,
Lee
The creative act is not performed by the artist alone; the spectator
brings the work in contact with the external world by deciphering and
interpreting its inner qualifications and thus adds his contribution to
the creative act. (Marcel Duchamp)
By all means use plexi-glas
I ship UPS ground, you can buy bubble pack at a
company that sells boxes to industry...it is a lot
cheaper to buy a huge roll for $45 that to buy tiny
pieces. It is an investment buy you will have it for
future shipping. Pack the pieces upright as you would
hang them and mark the box as up and down so they ship
it upright.
Put bubble wrap around each piece and put it in the
box. You are done.
Glass is a whole lot harder to pack but I have shipped
it with no problems.
Barbara
Marissa,
if you're feeling stressed for time and the thought of building your
own boxes seems overwhelming, check out the rather pricey boxes from
Masterpak.
http://www.masterpak-usa.com/hil_01_strong.htm
They're available from u-line, and I will attest to the fact that
they can be used over and over again, so if you're going to have work
shipped back to you from the gallery, you'll get them back to you.
And I will second Maria's suggestion of getting a Fed-Ex account.
You'll get much better prices than if you just walk in to the counter.
Kris
http://shanksart.com
Tibi -
Here's a bit more re your resume/CV - from my
experience a show of this sort will only need the CV if you're accepted
jury will be looking at the work submitted first
(unless things have changed a lot) -make it really simple (you don't need
an 'artist's statement' for this kind of
submission -just have the headings read 1.Shows &/ or Group Shows, 2.Galeries
(which would list more permanent venues) 3.
Education and 4. Work Experience , 5. Publications usually comes last
- try and make all entries relate to art work -if
you can't it might be better to wait until you have more to list BUT
if I'm right and the CV won't be viewed before
the judging - give it a try - there's nothing to lose........
Louise
PS If I may suggest it, have a look at my CV on
my website - I've had to leave a lot out (eg all the stuff re prints) as
it had to all fit on 1 page (required by many galleries and juried shows)
www.lcassart.com
Marylinn thank you.
Tibi:
The call looks very organized. I participate in all the calls I can if they are from Universities Galleries, Museums or Cultural Centers.
If I was living in another country with cheaper reliable mail I would participate more.
I think the label “professional artists” means in this case that you do Art in a regular basis no matter if you are starting. In México when they want professional artists they have a pre-requisite that you have one solo exhibit and 3 collective shows.
What I do is that I have two vitaes, one is the professional and the other one is the Visual Arts Vitae; because I interrupted the Art work for more then 20 years.
In the Arts Vitae I will put any activities you might have as other hobbies or participation in the Community. If you plan to participate in the collective in the future I would just state the date even if it is in the future.
Please tell us if you participate. I would like to participate next time.
When I want to make an exhibit I choose a topic and make 4 or 5 pieces, take photos and a written explanation of the objective of the exhibit saying how many more of this series I am doing. Then I try to make an appointment.
Good Luck,
Best Regards, Guadalupe
PS Sorry I cannot communicate through Outlook Express, but do not know why. Is there to much problem sending mail through here?
Hi Friends.
Ok, some comments from a kibbitzer here. Anyone who wants a good info on how
to pack flat art work can feel free to send me a sase for an amusing article I
wrote for a group. AlbaStudios, 4219 MLKing Jr Way, Oakland, CA 94609. Sorry,
I don't have it typed in. It gives funny awards for the most inventive
packing jobs for a major show I handled as well as a good and easy standard method.
Hey, once you have your shipping method figured out, it's all routine. Not to
worry!
Plexi is the ONLY way to go with shipping prints. Many venues also require it
rather than glass due to insurance rider guidelines. By the way, when you
clean it, do it in circular strokes, to avoid large areas that are visibly
scratched in certain angles of light.
I use FedEx due to a group I am in (The Calif. Society of Printmakers)
shipment for a huge show being completely refused by UPS for return shipment. Since
the works arrived that way, I find that I still remember the refusal years
later. Besides, there's absolutely NO CHARGE to keep an account with FedEx. They
give you labels with your return addy & account # already printed on. This
makes for incredibly easy return shipping as they just send you a bill
(detailed). Plus you don't have to stand in line... just hand the package over. I really
like Fed Ex. Naturally, there are horror stories with every shipping company.
I've had great luck and responsibility taking with Fed Ex too. I once rec'd a
damaged sculpture purchased in Taos that was badly packed.. and FedEx took on
the repair expenses! wowzers. No hassles at all. I've never had damages and
tend to show extensively.
One way to ship is to have a two inch safety area available in every
direction but I've cheated on this and only had an inch clearance. For example, if
your frame is 2" thick, you'd want a box 6 inches so that there'd be a "puncture
buffer" of two inches on each side. Use bubble wrap rather than "peanuts" as
they shift, leaving areas unguarded. There are two ways that damage occurs,
with the one that is less obvious being shifting within the box. Plus the return
shippers will be grateful as is the environment.
I add a "wall" of cardboard the same size as the box on front/ back of the
print. If shipping more than one print, I place them face to face after bubble
wrapping them. If you use blue painter's tape, it can be unsealed and then
pressed down again. Of course, I enclose the return shipping label made out in a
folder, along with my chronology and statement. No hassles!
Mirror boxes are great and very reuseable over and over. You might want to
consider reinforcing the box the first time you use it by taping the corners and
edges. They can last a long time that way. I hoard boxes and bubble wrap.
Maria's advice is steller for double boxing if you want to go that route. It's
usually reserved for three d art rather than flat work.
Remember to label which end is up, which end to open and make dotted lines
for where they are to cut the tape. Put "no weight" on areas where you don't
want things stacked on top.
Crumpled newspaper tends to pack down/move and allow your work to shift. Same
with plastic bags and foam peanuts. If you need "spacers", foam/rolled
cardboard that is taped is better. Plus it's free. Put your name on each piece and
if they don't have to be removed, tape them down. Certainly a diagram is a fine
courtesy to those who are repacking the shows... with dozens of pieces that
they may not have personally unpacked it gets onerous to guess one artist's
style of packing over another's.
If you ever use a "box store" to send your work, remember that they do not
put YOUR name nor your address on the box. Including your return shipping label
(and shipping money, if necessary) in the box sure is helpful. By the way, if
you use FedEx, you don't have to chase down the return shipping check/stamps.
I never insure my work, even those going to museums, when they are multiples.
This is because I"m too cheap but others may wish to. Sometimes you can get a
rider on your home insurance. It's a completely personal decision, of course.
Often venues ask you to be self insured, but what they really mean is that
it's not their responsibility if damage occurs, ie. you don't have to insure. In
the long run insurance is not cost effective unless you are very prominent or
they are one of a kind pieces. I do have friends who insure and friends who
do not.
Best Wishes.
ArtSpot Out
Benny Alba at OMebase
Underground nuclear testing, defoliation of the rain forests, toxic waste
... Let's put it this way: if the world were a big apartment, we wouldn't
get our deposit back. -John Ross