Everyone,
I've just finished a trial run of my first moku hanga, and I'm
interested in getting some technical advice before I do some real
printing. I'd appreciate hearing whatever you have to see. This post
is a bit long-winded, but I'm not sure yet how much I can leave out and
still get reliable feedback. I promise not to make a habit of being
this verbose.
Pictures
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http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/557894895FjJmTH
Brief Description of Method
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I used unmodified Akua Kolor ink on Rives Heavyweight paper that was
moistened according to David B's single point lessons. It uses 5
impressions from three 4x6 all-shina blocks on Rives Heavyweight paper
using the Kurosaki plastic disk baren. Since the blocks are small, I
used an L-shaped kento-ban (with kagi on the left for left-handed
operation).
The colors don't reproduce well in these photos, but there are two
two-color gradations: from red to red-brown on the lower part, and from
yellow to red on the upper part. I applied the lower red-brown with a
maru bake, the other gradations were done with hanga bake loaded with
ink on one end. I made about 18 prints on this paper, and a similar
number on bad paper. In stubborn flouting of tradition, I printed the
key block last (see comment 4 below).
This may seem like a lot to aim for in one piece. I reasoned that with
many things to learn, some would come easier than others and with one
medium-sized time investment I could get a start on most of them while
identifying some areas to concentrate on. Also, I originally meant
this to be throwaway work only on cheap paper before I ruined some nice
washi. The few trials I did on other paper confirmed everything I've
read about how pointless that is, so I dashed out and found some Rives.
Still, I'll save my good paper until I hear what advice you might have.
Observations/Questions
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1. It was much more difficult to get enough paste in the gradation than
in a flat-color region. I got a little better at it
over time, but this still has me a bit baffled. Pointers anyone?
2. Another contrast to flat color printing is that brushing out the
gradation pushes a lot more paste into the moat, enough that I sometimes
have to blot the moat before printing. Hmm, this seems connected to
Item 1.
3. This is sort of a corollary to Item 2: brushing gradations creates
lot more ink/paste buildup on the shoulders of the cut because I can't
seem to lift the brush the same way. Do I just need more practice?
Should I clean up the shoulders with another brush before printing?
4. This is a big one: the black ink (applied to lines without paste)
behaved much differently than the others. It was the only one that bled
on paper that seemed properly moistened. If anything, the paper was a
bit drier when I printed the black, since it was done last. The
pictured prints don't show this bleeding much, since I adjusted by using
far less ink. This caused weak impressions, which I tried with limited
success to counteract with re-inking. I'm sorely tempted to thicken
with paste or gum arabic, or maybe just evaporate the black ink more.
Are there any other suggestions?
I guess David B. is right in saying you have to learn how to print black
first.
5. How do you use the baren at the edges of the block. I worry about
having too much of it unsupported. I also feel a greater need to steady
the block with my free hand when working near the edge, but then my
fingers are in the way. How do you deal with this?
6. I used wood islands in strategic areas. Not only do they emboss into
the print, they seem to attract ink, no matter how careful I am. I'll
try rolls of paper next time.
7. The lower color block still needs some trimming.
8. Before a real printing, I'm going to be a lot pickier about the
colors. The yellow will be just a touch more red. The brown will have
a little more blue.
9. With a few individual exceptions, I didn't try re-inking the
gradations. I'll explore this some more. It will take a lot of
printing to develop anything resembling competency at gradations.
Addendum
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The print that doesn't match is the linocut that made me decide to try
different technology. Getting a single clean impression with speedball
ink on cardstock was nearly impossible.
Thanks,
Alex Orgren