Many thanks to everyone who responded to my request for info' re
image sales, copyright etc. - it's all very helpful and I now know
how to proceed.
BTW I'm just wondering if there's anywhere on the internet which
allows you to download (contract) forms rather than having to buy a
CD or book for same?
re the sore hands from cutting lino - in my opinion, ALL the lino on
the market today is wretched stuff - it's MUCH easier to cut basswood (linden),
pine and espec the shina from McClain's (the last being a very
reasonable price).
Louise C.
Hi, hope you can handle a few more comments on sore hands. Before I ever
became a carver I had problems with my wrist and thumb area on my carving
hand. The first thing my doc checked for was carpal tunnel, no it was
either arthritis or tendonitis. So if you have that than you will have sore
hands, period.
#1. How you hold your tools depends on where your hand, arm, wrist hurts.
For me, pressure exerted on the center of the hand was not good. I use the
power grip tools, in part, because I can hold them like a pencil. For
others this might be too much pressure on the fingers. For me too much
pressure on the palm of my hand is a problem.
#2. Take frequent breaks. I just break when I feel a bit tired, not sore,
just tired. I stretch my body including my hands. Stretching is an
important function and more than just the hands, the arms the shoulders,
even the back and legs. Our muscles seem to interact with each other and it
is amazing that stretching the legs helps the back, for example.
#3. As you create more blocks think on varying your activities. Try having
several blocks on hand to work on. I can spend part of a day carving, part
of a day printing and part of a day prepping paper for the next printing
session. The variation will keep you working but also keep the hands from
being used constantly for the same activity. That is why when you do an
exercise program you vary your activites working arms, back, tummy, legs,
etc. Staying with one muscle group too long can cause problems.
#4. I found the computer mouse a strain for my carving hand. Solution was
to use the mouse with my other hand, this goes for a lot of activities.
Save that carving hand for carving work as much as you can!
And most of all enjoy your work, if you are tense you hands will tighten and
that will strain them.
Good luck and have fun
Marilynn
Here's one someone posted a long time ago--"The Standard Art Consignment Agreement". No longer online but you can get it through the Internet Wayback Machine:
http://www.archive.org
type or paste in the address in the search box:
www.allworth.com/Pages/standa.htm
Darrell
I noticed on Belinda's most excellent blog that shina can be toned with
watercolour first to emphasise the design when cutting.
It looks like a great idea. However I'd be a little worried about
swelling the wood and making an uneven surface. Is that likely to happen
or can I go right ahead and reach for a brush?
Thanks,
David H
Actually reach for a sponge, it applies much faster that way. I put a little
Higgins ink mixed with water in a glass and then spread it using a sponge, I
do this to ALL my blocks and have had no problems with swelling.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/m_lee/230394055
--
~marissa lee
www.mleefineart.com
That's a great tip. Sponge it is, then. Thanks!
I agree with Marissa, David -- reach for the sponge, the brush, whatever --
a bit of watercolor tone on the surface of the block really helps you see
what's carved and what's not (blue is a nice color) -- won't hurt the block
at all -- but don't SOAK it, of course.
-- Mike
Mike Lyon
Kansas City, MO
http://mlyon.com
I'm thinking about making a woodblock print that also includes a news photo.
My first idea was to do xerox transfer - use acetate or oil of wintergreen
to transfer a laserprint image. But this could be trying (and stinky) for an
edition of 15-20 prints. Next I wondered about photopolymer, but I think one
would need a darkroom for that. But then I thought of solarplate.
Two questions about solarplate. Can it be used to print relief? And if so,
can it be hand printed with a baren?
Thank you as always for your help,
Annie B
http://www.anniebissett.com
http://woodblockdreams.blogspot.com
PS - I was excited to find a page about Maria on the hgtv website:
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_wood_glass/article/0,,HGTV_3347_4227829,00.html
I'm sad that I missed the re-airing of the spot :(
OK, I have to reply to the sore hand issue. Your hands will get tired at
first until you build up the muscle, I like the timer reminder to break
every 15 minutes, thanks for that good tip. Now on Sharp Tools. Yes that
will definately relieve much of the strain and help prevent skip gouging
and finger slicing. BUT as for what you use on linoleum I cannot stress
this enough...don't use your good wood knives on the linonleum!!! Linoleum
is gritty and it will pit the edge of your knives faster than petrified
cherry! That is why there are tools specifically designed for linoleum.
And easiest of all is the cheap speedball linoleum cutting tool. It's
lousy for woodcut but great for linoleum and the cheap blades can be tossed
when dull and easily replaced. And also nice is that you have a selection
of V and U gouges, straight, chisel and other interchangable blades that
store right in the handle of the knife. I have three that I keep on hand
while carving, one with a v, one with a u and one straight edge, only
because I go back and forth between the three frequently and get annoyed if
I'm changeing blades too often. The easiest thing to do when you order
your knife is to order a box or two of EACH type of blade you may use; that
way you WILL have plenty to change out when the current gets dulled. one
way to keep the linoleum warm is to periodically put it on a nearby
hotplate (temperature set very low) for a few seconds but I find that
constantly replacing dulled blades works just as well. Have fun with the
linoleum and show us what you've done when finished.
http://www.artfestivalguide.info/photoalbums/festivals/album1.htm
The rainy festival was actually pretty good. The few customers that came
seemed to want to spend quickly and leave.
The moths were a mystery until I realized I was set up under a huge
stadium-type light. As soon as dark came, the moths went to the light
hovering by the thousands just above my booth. Presumably after morning came
they settled on my walls to spend the day napping. Every framed print I sold
that day made me gasp since when I pulled off the wall, there were around 30
moths on the wall behind it.
The St. Bernard remains my fondest memory from festivals. I'm going back out
there this summer.
Enjoy!
Maria Arango
www.1000woodcuts.com
www.artfestivalguide.info
I would like to second everything that Tom K. said in his answer to Jen
re/carving strain. There should be little or no strain IF first you
modify the way you are holding the tools. This is the voice of
experience speaking and I can tell you that the best thing I have done
was to purchase 2 or 3 really good Japanese tools, mine came from
McClain's. Two reasons they are so good: 1) you can cut and round the
handle to the proper length for your individual hand (method for so
doing is in the McClain's catalog), and 2) they hold a sharp edge
longer than anything else I know of. As several teachers have told me,
once you have the toolls good and sharpened you will only need to rub
them across a piece of leather with honing compound and keep on carving
smoothly and easily. When you have the extra $$ one of those honing
machines, also through McClain's, is truly living the good life.
But, most important — please get to work on changing your grip on the
tool before you cause permanent damage! And, one more thing, the
carving bench that Tom referred to and which Graham Scholes has on his
web site, I believe it is called a horidai, or something like that, is
a real entire body saver and worth the time and minimum expense to
build. I built my own and it was a snap (except that I screwed the
hinge on backward and had to redo it.) ;-/
Cheers ~
Sharri