viza
these are awesome you did this with a wood burninb tool??? thats exciting
georga
Bobbi...what brand burning tool do you use?
Cheers,
Tony
Bobbi...what brand burning tool do you use?
Cheers,
Tony
Wow, thanks everyone -- did not expect this many answers. Mike, thank you for the cutting techniques. Unfortunately, I learned the hard way that the tip of the knife can break, had to spend a lot of time sharpening it again -- I thought it was just a one time problem, that can be avoided with better initial scoring. I'm looking forward to trying the letter carving technique -- was doing something along those lines, but not in a very rigorous manner; hopefully it will speed up carving -- my project involves 21 prints, each with at least 5-6 words on them. Wanda, for me the knife is also my main tool (I'm quite confused on the difference between the hangi to and sho to, they seem to have the same blade); probably, in time, will invest in a set of good professional tools. Yes, the tools are not holy, but somehow got used to using Japanese tools -- tried western ones but they seem hard to control, there's something about a shorter blade that seems to agree with me.
Tibi
->
-- tried western ones but they seem hard to control, there's something about a shorter blade that seems to agree with me.
Tibi
I agree Tibi, I started with my husband's long bladed western carving tools. I found myself holding way down on the blade for more control. I was thrilled when I discovered the Japanese tools. Now I mainly use an exacto blade, and just throw them away!
I think the best thing I ever did was find the right wood. I had started out on some cherry (very hard for a beginner, especially if you can't sharpen your own tools) and some cheap plywoods (which splinter). Once I found a wood I could carve without frustrations, I carved more and got better at it. I now use solid jelatong, which is related to basswood. It has very straight and even grain, but cuts beautifully in any direction. Not a lot of character if you are looking for grain in your prints, but its great to learn the process on.
I am lucky in that my husband can buy the wood and mill it for me. I think most here would suggest a beginner invest in some shina plywood, it should carve very similarly.
>Bobbi...what brand burning tool do you use?
>Cheers,
>Tony
>
Tony,
Viza was the one who posted those wonderful prints. I have a cheap
crafty tool, but haven't tried it yet for printmaking.
I was wondering the same thing about the tools that Viza uses???
bobbi c.
Hi, I'm a real beginner at woodblock printing, so I can only comment from my own limited experience. All I've been doing recently is carving (when time allows) with a 6mm Hangito in a piece of Cherry I bought cheaply and Shina Ply. Just practice, practice, practice. I've begun to see real improvements in my ability to carve finer and finer linework with just this one tool.
For me and the work I do, linework is paramount, and despite trying other knives, the Hangito is the one. Make sure that if you're left-handed you get a left-handed knife.
Mike makes a good point about pressure on the carved line causing it to break, and I've found that cutting the 2 cuts on one side of the line to create the V , and then cutting the other side of the line seems to lessen the risk of breaking fine lines. I've also found that increasing the angle of the first cuts that delineate the line strengthens the line. A really fine line with a wide base. I hope that makes sense.
I draw for a living and spent years doodling and practicing, I seem to be following the same logic with woodblocks.
In a woodblock printing book that's widely available in the UK and abroad it says to cut lines with the BEVEL edge TOWARDS the line you're cutting. In Hiroshi Yoshida's book (great ebook from David Bull - many thanks) amongst others it says to cut with the FLAT edge towards the line.
I've always used the flat edge, it works really well and feels totally right. The bevel edge just seems like the wrong way round.
Do people have a preference, or is the book that recommends bevel edge towards the line just wrong? I'd love to hear what other's opinions are.