[Baren] Daily Digest

Today's postings

[Baren 32108] Re: Baren Digest (old) V37 #3668 ("claudia g coonen")
[Baren 32109] Re: Baren Digest (old) V37 #3668 ("Robert Viana")
[Baren 32110] Re: Baren Digest (old) V37 #3668 ("DePry Clan")
[Baren 32111] Re: Baren Digest (old) V37 #3668 ("Mike Lyon")
[Baren 32112] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification (Blog Manager)

Message 1
From: "claudia g coonen"
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 08:16:13 -1000
Subject: [Baren 32108] Re: Baren Digest (old) V37 #3668
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Maybe one of you tool handy guys has a solution.
I bought a small carving knife, a japanese one that has the long slit in
the handle to slide the long blade up as you use it over the years....
problem is the slot is a little to long and the blade keeps sliding down
into groove and blade is hardly exposed , I've turned it around, put
wood(shavings down in the bottom of groove), paper, and blade still slides
in. The metal ring you slide over the top goes down but obviously doesn't
tighten the whole thing enough.. any other suggestions?
I'm tired of needing plyers to pull the blade out when working on doing
outlines of small details.
Thanks
Claudia

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Message 2
From: "Robert Viana"
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 17:00:21 -0200
Subject: [Baren 32109] Re: Baren Digest (old) V37 #3668
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The blase should have a little nub at the end, and there should be a knotch in the inside furrow for the blade. That Knotch is where the nub rests in as a stop. You just need to re-carve the nub a little higher.
Then put it back together.

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Message 3
From: "DePry Clan"
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 12:05:11 -0700
Subject: [Baren 32110] Re: Baren Digest (old) V37 #3668
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Try wetting the handle to get the wood to swell or tape around the blade to
give a thickerness. Last resort, glue a piece of wood inside as a 'stop' to
prevent the blade from sliding back.
Double D

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Message 4
From: "Mike Lyon"
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 16:58:48 -0500
Subject: [Baren 32111] Re: Baren Digest (old) V37 #3668
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The blade of the toh should have a small 'hook' bent into the end (not the
blade end, the other end!) so that it slightly presses into the side of the
slot in the handle and prevents the blade from pushing in. This 'hook' is
usually about an eighth of an inch long and bent about 15 degrees -- not so
much that it would split the handle, but enough so it's tight and any
movement of the blade 'into' the handle tends to make it dig into the side
so it can't slide.

By the way, the blade should go into the slot in the handle with the sharp
skew edge down ('down' if the slot opening is 'up') so that the pressure of
the blade during use is against the bezel and not directly into the wood of
the handle.

-- Mike

Mike Lyon
Kansas City, MO
http://mlyon.com

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Message 5
From: Blog Manager
Date: 25 Oct 2006 03:55:07 -0000
Subject: [Baren 32112] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification
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Baren Archives

[Baren] - the International Forum for Woodblock Printmaking

Volume: 37 / Number: 3669

Wednesday, 25th of October, 2006

Today's postings

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