Message posted from: Dale Phelps
Murilo mentioned in his blog that he uses only 2 or three tools. I also find that while I have a multitude of tools I end up using 3 u gouges. I have some Japanese gouges but these are rather inexpensive (one is an old one from Brookstone). I would be intersted in what tools you and others use.
Dale Phelps Waterloo, IA
I have a multitude of tools but I stick to four of them most of the time.
They are my; bull nosed chisel, medium u gouge, small u gouge and a small
shallow u gouge for clearing tiny areas.
--
~marissa lee
www.mleefineart.com
The gallery from the fantastic chuban exchange #25 "Dreams and
Visions" is finally available for viewing (along with previous
exchange galleries) at
http://barenforum.org/exchange/exchanges.html -- ENJOY!
I recently received the archive set of prints from #26 from John
Center for scanning and Bea Gold has sent me exchange #27. I'll have
those galleries up as soon as I can complete scanning and creating
the hundred-or-so files for each gallery... Hang in there -- we're
almost current again!
-- Mike
Mike Lyon
Kansas City, Missouri
http://mlyon.com
Louise thanks for your answer. Our system is hard to understand but it is
the one we learn as children and converting things to metric is trying. Now
I know where to order my paper and what I will get.
Marilynn
Marilyn - It seems you've been provided with conflicting answers and I may
have misled you - I was going by the various papers and blocks I have from
Europe -for example: 100 lb =(260 gsm); 140lb = (300 gsm); 100 lb=(260
gsm); 260lb= {555gsm) etc BUT THE PAPERS ARE SIMILAR However it does seem
obvious that there can't be a standard way of converting weight in lbs for
many different types and sizes of papers. Hence I'm afraid your 250gm could
be anything - as a rule tho' when dealing with paper graded by the weight
of a ream, an intermediate weight is 90lbs; 140 lbs fairly heavy and so on
- my cartridge paper from the UK is graded 135 gsm -I don't have a lb
weight for it but it is heavy enough for ink and wash but is fairly
lightweight and I'd put it as under the 90lb 'intermediate' standard.. Also
have a German not very heavyweight watercolour paper at 250gsm (no lb
equivalent) but it feels close in weight to a Bristol vellum from the U.S.
which has 100lbs=(260 gsm) so perhaps you can compare the feel
of different papers to arrive at an equivalent for yours.
Well, I've really 'made my supper out of this' as I've heard said, but I
guess that we all get to recognize various weights by comparison; higher
gsm and lb #'s always designating heavier papers.
Louise
Dear Mike,
Thank you for so much hard work on getting the exchanges up! I love being
able to send people to Baren to check out the work of our members. By the
way, when I attempted to comment on their prints to several people in the
Dreams and Visions Exchange, I kept getting an "error, one of the names is invalid..." ,
and was unable to send any commentary at all. Has anyone else had this
problem?
Carol in Sacramento
Thanks Mike, I've been waiting for these and they are
a treat. I'm looking forward to the next ones. I
really appreciate your efforts.
Richard Stockham
Birmingham, Alabama
I'm wondering if any one has any suggestions for a good place to learn
Moku- Hanga printing, or a good book to get me started. To date, I
have only printed oilbased inks, but would love to take either a class
on more traditional printing, or at least read up on it. I live in
Chicago, but would be open minded to travel if anyone knows of any
workshops that I could possible attend. Thanks!
Angee
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Hi Dale,
When I first started doing block prints (linoleum at that time) the
instructor recommended to buy
only 2 or 3 to get started. A medium sized u gouge & a medium size v
gouge to start with & then
add some as you need them. When I started doing Hanga, I found I
needed a knife to carve the
lines, so I added that tool. Over the years I have added a bunch of
Japanese carving tools - some
I use all the time and some only occasionally or for certain effects I
want to
achieve. A small, medium & fairly large bull-nose chisel, a large
shallow u-gouge for clearing
big spaces, and a really small u-gouge that I use fairly often. But
the original U&V gouge are
used the most.
Hope this helps,
Wanda
Angee,
The baren group will be having a real time meeting called the Baren Summit this summer from Aug 14-18 in Vancouver Washington. It will be a whole lot of info on this very thing. We do have members in Chicago so possibly someone will contact you. But try to come this summer. Info about the summit will be announced in a day or two on the list. We are planning a great time, good food and fabulous scenery here in the Pacific Northwest, as well as a lot of shared knowledge. We did this 3 years ago in Kansas City and it was unbelievablely fun and techincally very helpful.
best to you,
Barbara
Welcome Linden,
You are both of my other websites! I was in Tasmania before Christmas
for a conference...could have met! Next time.......
Try some of your Huon pine.... some recycled timber because I know that
new timber is sacred in Tassie. It should work well for you with oil
based ink. I had it on my "wish" list to bring home!
Welcome,
Jan
Perth, WAust
I use a 1.5 mm 'v' gouge the most. Depending on which wood I am using for
the matrix.
When I am using maple I use a mallet and carving tools more than I would use
if I was using cherry. Maple allows for details and very fine carving that
other plank grain woods don't.
john c.
thanks for the artists that
have mentioned my text .
keep going to
http://murilo-antonio.blog.uol.com.br/
and please let some words
thanks again
Murilo
PS. Mike, the two #29 are going to be
a sucsess as always.
from these I'm not unsubscribe for sure.