Today's postings

  1. [Baren 28660] Re: lurkers and a book (ArtfulCarol # aol.com)
  2. [Baren 28661] Re: lurkers and a book ("Ellen Shipley")
  3. [Baren 28662] Re: lurkers and a book (Wanda Robertson)
  4. [Baren 28663] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V32 #3180 (Sep 6, 2005) (DADI # aol.com)
  5. [Baren 28664] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V32 #3180 (Sep 6, 2005) ("Ramsey Household")
  6. [Baren 28665] to list or not to list (Barbara Mason)
  7. [Baren 28666] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V32 #3180 (Sep 6, 2005) (tfl4467 # blackfoot.net)
  8. [Baren 28667] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V32 #3180 (Sep 6, 2005) (Barbara Mason)
  9. [Baren 28668] Re: lurkers and a book ("Matt Laine")
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Message 1
From: ArtfulCarol # aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 14:03:19 EDT
Subject: [Baren 28660] Re: lurkers and a book
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Barbara Mason wrote:

>It does not have to be woodblock

I thought Barenforum did have to be related to woodblock Anything else
could go into
After 5. That seemed to work and eliminated all other news that members may
want to read or not.
I have been enjoying Barenforum and After 5 for years, each in its own place.
What do you think?

Thanks for the Woodblock book information.

Carol Lyons
Irvington, NY
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Message 2
From: "Ellen Shipley"
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 11:07:01 -0700
Subject: [Baren 28661] Re: lurkers and a book
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Oh. What's After 5? I don't think I've heard of that.

Thanx.
Ellen Shipley, CA

http://pressing-issues.blogspot.com/
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/philippaschuyler/my_photos
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Message 3
From: Wanda Robertson
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 11:41:21 -0700
Subject: [Baren 28662] Re: lurkers and a book
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Probably the easiest way to handle this is to think of baren forum as a
primarily
'woodblock' site. If you have other art pursuits- they can be posted
on 'after5'
(a sort of meeting/bar type of list) or you can refer people to a blog
or web
page. I think we all enjoy looking at other artist's work - woodblocks
or not.

This way people can have a choice as to whether or not they want to
take a
look at other's work.

By the way, Ellen, you can sign up for 'after5' by going to the main
page of
baren forum - click on "join or leave baren" then go to baren after 5 &
join.
Easy stuff. :-) It's pretty quiet most of the time - but can sometimes
get quite
lively!

Wanda
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Message 4
From: DADI # aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 15:22:46 EDT
Subject: [Baren 28663] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V32 #3180 (Sep 6, 2005)
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I have two questions which I would like to pose to the group.

1) What kind of paper do you use between prints for storage and for
sending prints for exchanges and where do you get it?

2) If you do traditional western relief printmaking with water soluble
inks, what brands do you use and what are their respective benefits. I have
used the Akua Kolor. It is generally quite transparent, is thin, and I have
trouble applying it with a brayer without leaving brayer marks. I also use
Daniel Smith's water soluble inks which are more like oil based. The black is very
black and good for black and white prints. It will not, however cover
another layer containing white ink. They tend to dry out in the cans so I have
started getting them in the tube.

Thanks for your suggestions,

Dale Phelps
Waterloo, IA
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Message 5
From: "Ramsey Household"
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 13:12:11 -0700
Subject: [Baren 28664] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V32 #3180 (Sep 6, 2005)
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Try Graphic Chemical . Their inks work like oil based inks, but clean up with soap and water. They are excellent.

Carolyn
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Message 6
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 13:16:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 28665] to list or not to list
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Carol,
What I meant was that I would like to see links to everyone's work. We almost all do other things and they are still a part of us as artists. I don't mean we have to dwell on non-woodblock, just that I am interested in the whole artist and talk about other stuff can certainly go to after-5. We do not want to get the list terribly off track, that is for sure, but we do want to meet all the people who are on it and interested in what we are also interested in. We can be flexible and still focus on wood, just like we accept linoblock prints in the exchanges and oil based ink. In my opinion, seeing someone is a great illustrator as well as a printmaker only makes them more interesting. I would hope there are a few collectors on this list who are not printmakers and I am interested in that also, why they collect and the scope of their collections. If there is one thing I sure know is that I have no idea what motivates people to buy art. There are a zillion reasons and just liking
it does
not seem to be number 1, although I think it should be.
Best to all,
Barbara
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Message 7
From: tfl4467 # blackfoot.net
Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2005 14:21:02 -0600
Subject: [Baren 28666] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V32 #3180 (Sep 6, 2005)
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Hi,
I hope I don't make anyone cringe! I am a beginner using Speedball and
Dick Blick water soluble. Also, plain white tissue to store prints, my
drug store carries it.

Mindy Wilson
http://www.artwanted.com/Mwilson
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Message 8
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 13:33:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 28667] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V32 #3180 (Sep 6, 2005)
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Dale,
You should use an acid free paper....some is buffered and works pretty well. The traditional papers are called glassine or interleaving and are both acid free, glassine is almost clear and interleaving is white but translucent. You can get both from Graphic Chemical. Lots of exchage prints are shipped to the coordinator with newsprint between them as they are not quite 100% dry. This is fine, but if you get a portfolio with newsprint in it, you should remove it as soon as the prints are really dry as it will eventually damage the paper. This takes a bit of time, it won't happen in a month but surely will in a year.

The new Akua Kolor Intaglio ink is thicker and works more like oil, I suggest you try it again.
Graphic chemical watersoluble ink is good and more opaque than Dan Smith. I have found that the Dan Smith inks have a bit less pigment in them than they used to. I mix a lot of transparent base in my inks as I like to use litho ink that is transparent but still has intense color. When I mixed up my Dan Smith ink a couple of years ago, addinb base as I usually do, there was almost no color....and it was all the colors, not just one, so not a bad can of ink.
If you were using it out of the can you probably would never notice this.

The problem printing opaque colors over one another makes for drying problems and adhering problems. Each ink has it's strengths and weaknesses. If you use a roller that is larger than your block you will have no problems with roller marks. You need a very light hand to use a smaller roller, feather weight, rolling from the center to the edge and going back to the slab for thin layer after thin layer of ink. It can take 10 minutes to ink a block well if you are using a small roller and of course longer if it is a large block. Most inks have retarders to keep it moist, I would use them since you live where it is so hot in the summer. Humidity and cool are the printmakers friend....printing in Iowa in the summer has got to present a huge challenge. The paper probably dries out before you get it to the block!
Best to you,
Barbara
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Message 9
From: "Matt Laine"
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 16:36:24 -0400
Subject: [Baren 28668] Re: lurkers and a book
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Maybe relief printing would be a better forum title?
Matt
www.mattssculptureplus.blogspot.com