Today's postings
- [Baren 26599] Re: printing with children (Charles Morgan)
- [Baren 26600] Re: printing with children (GraphChem # aol.com)
- [Baren 26601] Re: printing with children ("Robert Canaga")
- [Baren 26602] RE: Baren Digest (old) V29 #2880 ("marilynn smih")
- [Baren 26603] Welcome to Jamie, (GWohlken)
- [Baren 26604] Re shunga in the new year ("Love Me")
- [Baren 26605] Re: Re shunga in the new year (FurryPressII # aol.com)
- [Baren 26606] Fwd: Re: Meyer Book and Color Chart (L Cass)
- [Baren 26607] thanks to ALL for bearing baren tips (Bette Norcross Wappner)
- [Baren 26608] Welcome to Jamie, (Bette Norcross Wappner)
Message 1
From: Charles Morgan
Date: Tue, 07 Dec 2004 08:49:32 -0800
Subject: [Baren 26599] Re: printing with children
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Juan,
Do not forget the joys of nature printing. In its simplest form, just roll
out ink or use a brush to apply a thin coat of ink to natural objects ...
leaves, grasses, etc. For thin objects like leaves, place the inked side
down on the paper, cover with a piece of bond paper or similar thin stuff,
and just rub with your fingers. If you use flexible, dampened paper, you
can print 3D objects like fish, shells, etc. For fish, wash it well to
remove the slime, and then pat dry with old toweling. Ink the item using a
brush or a dabber and use your hands to press the dampened paper onto the
object.
If you have thin, water based inks, you can place the items you want to
print on a piece of news paper and spray them with ink ... you can use a
plastic "trigger" spray bottle for this. Then arrange the inked specimens
on a clean background, cover with your printing paper, and rub with your
fingers.
It is also fun to make "splatter prints" with thin acrylic paint or ink.
Place your printing paper on a flat surface. Put a couple of leaves,
flowers, grasses on the paper. Then spray LIGHTLY with ink ... or dip a
tooth brush into the ink, hold it above your arrangement, and rub the
bristles to get a light spray. Then place a few more items on top your
composition, and spray again. Place a few more items down, and spray again.
Then carefully remove all the items from the paper. You will be left with
lovely, ghostly silhouettes with a striking illusion of depth.
Check out the web site for the Nature Printing Society:
www.natureprintingsociety.info
Cheers ...... Charles
Do not forget the joys of nature printing. In its simplest form, just roll
out ink or use a brush to apply a thin coat of ink to natural objects ...
leaves, grasses, etc. For thin objects like leaves, place the inked side
down on the paper, cover with a piece of bond paper or similar thin stuff,
and just rub with your fingers. If you use flexible, dampened paper, you
can print 3D objects like fish, shells, etc. For fish, wash it well to
remove the slime, and then pat dry with old toweling. Ink the item using a
brush or a dabber and use your hands to press the dampened paper onto the
object.
If you have thin, water based inks, you can place the items you want to
print on a piece of news paper and spray them with ink ... you can use a
plastic "trigger" spray bottle for this. Then arrange the inked specimens
on a clean background, cover with your printing paper, and rub with your
fingers.
It is also fun to make "splatter prints" with thin acrylic paint or ink.
Place your printing paper on a flat surface. Put a couple of leaves,
flowers, grasses on the paper. Then spray LIGHTLY with ink ... or dip a
tooth brush into the ink, hold it above your arrangement, and rub the
bristles to get a light spray. Then place a few more items on top your
composition, and spray again. Place a few more items down, and spray again.
Then carefully remove all the items from the paper. You will be left with
lovely, ghostly silhouettes with a striking illusion of depth.
Check out the web site for the Nature Printing Society:
www.natureprintingsociety.info
Cheers ...... Charles
Message 2
From: GraphChem # aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 12:13:11 EST
Subject: [Baren 26600] Re: printing with children
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Dean has done several workshops with children - 3rd, 4th and 5th graders.
He's done monoprinting and dry points. In doing the dry points, he worked with
the art teacher. She had her students draw their design on paper,
instructing them to keep it simple without a lot of detail...later, she had them put
plastic plates over their work so that they could draw over with a single ended
needle (if d/e, top with a cork). Dean brought a press in and the kids loved
it - especially the boys, who seem to love anything mechanical. They had a
hard time getting them away from the press. Also, lino zips are great because
they are draw tools.
It's great to see printmaking done in the schools at the elementary level.
Susan
He's done monoprinting and dry points. In doing the dry points, he worked with
the art teacher. She had her students draw their design on paper,
instructing them to keep it simple without a lot of detail...later, she had them put
plastic plates over their work so that they could draw over with a single ended
needle (if d/e, top with a cork). Dean brought a press in and the kids loved
it - especially the boys, who seem to love anything mechanical. They had a
hard time getting them away from the press. Also, lino zips are great because
they are draw tools.
It's great to see printmaking done in the schools at the elementary level.
Susan
Message 3
From: "Robert Canaga"
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 09:20:18 -0800
Subject: [Baren 26601] Re: printing with children
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They hold ink well but the line quality is not as good as with wood.
Louise Cass wrote:
> Juan -
> I used to teach art to children in grades 1-6 (6-11yr olds) and we did a
> lot of printmaking - for the youngest -potato prints (using sharp spoons
> on 1/2 large potatoes) and for the older ones cutting shapes from a
> variety of cardboards and other easily glueable 'junk' which are mounted
> on more board to make relief prints, also the children enjoyed glueing
> string to make different designs which printed beautifully. We also cut
> the styrofoam trays (gathered from grocery stores) but some kids had
> trouble with it breaking when they used too much pressure.
> For inks we used poster paint applied by brush and I just remembered I
> provided the older kids with pieces of plexiglass for monoprints but they
> can also paint heavily on cardboard and print quickly for this - you need
> tonnes of cardboard! They used large silver (metal) spoons for barens.
> hope this is useful
> Louise Cass
Louise Cass wrote:
> Juan -
> I used to teach art to children in grades 1-6 (6-11yr olds) and we did a
> lot of printmaking - for the youngest -potato prints (using sharp spoons
> on 1/2 large potatoes) and for the older ones cutting shapes from a
> variety of cardboards and other easily glueable 'junk' which are mounted
> on more board to make relief prints, also the children enjoyed glueing
> string to make different designs which printed beautifully. We also cut
> the styrofoam trays (gathered from grocery stores) but some kids had
> trouble with it breaking when they used too much pressure.
> For inks we used poster paint applied by brush and I just remembered I
> provided the older kids with pieces of plexiglass for monoprints but they
> can also paint heavily on cardboard and print quickly for this - you need
> tonnes of cardboard! They used large silver (metal) spoons for barens.
> hope this is useful
> Louise Cass
Message 4
From: "marilynn smih"
Date: Tue, 07 Dec 2004 11:45:14 -0800
Subject: [Baren 26602] RE: Baren Digest (old) V29 #2880
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Juan for your children why not try some monotypes? I use plexi for plates
and any watercolor pigment will do. In place of plexi you might find some
other surface, I am not sure what you have available, but be creative. Also
collgraphs would be fun. They are essentially collages that are printed.
All kinds of things pasted to, say a piece of thin, but heavy cardboard will
work. You could print using a rolling pin or if necessary a spoon or
whatever you could come up with. I have made collagraph plates using
various grades of sand paper, eggshells, sand, or any item that will give an
interesting surface. Just look around, cloth of varying textures works too.
Regarding the Myrtle wood, the husband always says it grows in Oregon and in
the holy land, I am not an expert. But I have lived in Oregon and
Washington all my life and have never found it in the Portland area or in
Washington. I have driven the Oregon coast since childhood, numerous times,
and every time we get to the more southern areas Myrtle wood shops are
everywhere. I know if it was truly rare I would not have gotten a bucket
full for only $15.00. I was suggesting that if you go through the area try
getting some. So far, with my carving I am delighted. It is holding the
fine lines of this much more intricate and delicate design than I have
carved in wood before. So i would say it is excellent carving wood. It is
a simple case of when you can get something new that works nicely for a good
price do it! So if you are driving the Oregon coast in the near future try
getting a piece for carving.
Now a question. I am carving some very delicate lines. In clearing these
out I have been using the haga to knife and scraping a bit with the point.
also I have a 3m/m chisel. For future reference would a smaller chisel
help, this is a small carving???
Marilynn
and any watercolor pigment will do. In place of plexi you might find some
other surface, I am not sure what you have available, but be creative. Also
collgraphs would be fun. They are essentially collages that are printed.
All kinds of things pasted to, say a piece of thin, but heavy cardboard will
work. You could print using a rolling pin or if necessary a spoon or
whatever you could come up with. I have made collagraph plates using
various grades of sand paper, eggshells, sand, or any item that will give an
interesting surface. Just look around, cloth of varying textures works too.
Regarding the Myrtle wood, the husband always says it grows in Oregon and in
the holy land, I am not an expert. But I have lived in Oregon and
Washington all my life and have never found it in the Portland area or in
Washington. I have driven the Oregon coast since childhood, numerous times,
and every time we get to the more southern areas Myrtle wood shops are
everywhere. I know if it was truly rare I would not have gotten a bucket
full for only $15.00. I was suggesting that if you go through the area try
getting some. So far, with my carving I am delighted. It is holding the
fine lines of this much more intricate and delicate design than I have
carved in wood before. So i would say it is excellent carving wood. It is
a simple case of when you can get something new that works nicely for a good
price do it! So if you are driving the Oregon coast in the near future try
getting a piece for carving.
Now a question. I am carving some very delicate lines. In clearing these
out I have been using the haga to knife and scraping a bit with the point.
also I have a 3m/m chisel. For future reference would a smaller chisel
help, this is a small carving???
Marilynn
Message 5
From: GWohlken
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 15:21:29 -0500
Subject: [Baren 26603] Welcome to Jamie,
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Jamie wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I just signed up- my name is Jamie Oberschlake and I'm
> from a little town on the Ohio River called Ripley. I
> am currently working on my MFA with emphasis in
> painting at the University of Cincinnati. I am
> finishing up my second printmaking class and have
> thoroughly enjoyed the woodcut process. Black and
> white prints are what I am much more drawn to than
> color. I'm really looking forward to settling in here
> and am especially excited about becoming involved in
> the exchanges.
> Best wishes, Jamie
>
>
Welcome to Baren, Jamie. It is always fun to see another Ohioan among
the group. I'm in the northeast part of the state in a little village
called Burton. I, too, like black and white images, though I've been
dabbling in color for a while. The excitement of a good rich dark
black and white design, especially on Kitakata paper which has a
natural tone that enhances the black ink -- to me it just doesn't get
any better. There will probably be those who would disagree with that
:-) but it's just right for me. The exchanges are fun and force us
to learn in ways we might not if we only did a few copies each of our
prints.
~Gayle/Ohio
> Hello all,
>
> I just signed up- my name is Jamie Oberschlake and I'm
> from a little town on the Ohio River called Ripley. I
> am currently working on my MFA with emphasis in
> painting at the University of Cincinnati. I am
> finishing up my second printmaking class and have
> thoroughly enjoyed the woodcut process. Black and
> white prints are what I am much more drawn to than
> color. I'm really looking forward to settling in here
> and am especially excited about becoming involved in
> the exchanges.
> Best wishes, Jamie
>
>
Welcome to Baren, Jamie. It is always fun to see another Ohioan among
the group. I'm in the northeast part of the state in a little village
called Burton. I, too, like black and white images, though I've been
dabbling in color for a while. The excitement of a good rich dark
black and white design, especially on Kitakata paper which has a
natural tone that enhances the black ink -- to me it just doesn't get
any better. There will probably be those who would disagree with that
:-) but it's just right for me. The exchanges are fun and force us
to learn in ways we might not if we only did a few copies each of our
prints.
~Gayle/Ohio
Message 6
From: "Love Me"
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 12:45:11 +1100
Subject: [Baren 26604] Re shunga in the new year
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I realise how indelicate it is to carry on with this talk of shunga and I apologise to all those I may have offended. Mellisa, I quite understand why you would be feeling morose, but, I can't let the matter rest without one last shot.
If there are any members who would like to cast a vote in favour of John Center and his cock, I think a breakaway group may be in order. Granted, it is unlikely that many will raise a hand in such a public forum, so I will be happy to gather expressions of interest by email. First order of business; a good acronym. Perhaps a small exchange may be arranged. Supporters of JC and his right to be rude, unite!
Tom
If there are any members who would like to cast a vote in favour of John Center and his cock, I think a breakaway group may be in order. Granted, it is unlikely that many will raise a hand in such a public forum, so I will be happy to gather expressions of interest by email. First order of business; a good acronym. Perhaps a small exchange may be arranged. Supporters of JC and his right to be rude, unite!
Tom
Message 7
From: FurryPressII # aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 21:04:30 EST
Subject: [Baren 26605] Re: Re shunga in the new year
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my intent was to use the word and not the object in question remember
this has to go through the mail hehe No intention to offend
john center
this has to go through the mail hehe No intention to offend
john center
Message 8
From: L Cass
Date: Tue, 07 Dec 2004 21:42:45 -0500
Subject: [Baren 26606] Fwd: Re: Meyer Book and Color Chart
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This didn't get sent so I'm trying again since I think some of you might be
interested in tracking down the colour book mentioned below note below
>Mon, 06 Dec 2004 10:47:52 -0500
>To: baren@ml.asahi-net.or.jp
>From: L Cass
>Subject: Re: [Baren 26569] Meyer Book and Color Chart
>
>
>In praise of Mayer's Handbook....... (hardly a handbook - it's a heavy
>tome)- by an amazing coincidence I just consulted it yesterday when making
>up a glazing medium as I always want to ascertain the proportions. Many
>years ago all serious art students were advised to acquire it -I had the
>1957 edition which was much used and later replaced by the 1981 edition
>(revised by Mayer's widow et al) I wonder which edition you found at
>Amazon and what has been added by Steven Sheehan ?? probably more or new
>materials and techniques
>
>For all who are interested in colour there exists a marvelous little
>handbook titled "Colour -Making and Using Dyes and Pigments"-
>authors- Francois Delamare & Bernard Guineau , Eng. trans,Thames & Hudson,
>2000 , ISBN 0-500-30102-6 (Fr. Ed. Gallimard 1999)
>Although it's a tiny paperback it contains much on the history of pigments
>as well as the newest synthetics and their properties - a fascinating book
>altogether!
>
>I found this book a couple of years ago at the Tate Gallery bookshop in
>London but I imagine a search on the internet would find a copy over here
>
>regards
>Louise C.
Message 9
From: Bette Norcross Wappner
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 22:54:30 -0500
Subject: [Baren 26607] thanks to ALL for bearing baren tips
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thanks to everyone for such helpful advice on ball-bearing barens.
i appreciate all of you. what a great group :)
warm regards,
bette wappner
bettewappner#fuse.net
northern Kentucky (10 min. south of Cincinnati)
i appreciate all of you. what a great group :)
warm regards,
bette wappner
bettewappner#fuse.net
northern Kentucky (10 min. south of Cincinnati)
Message 10
From: Bette Norcross Wappner
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 23:07:23 -0500
Subject: [Baren 26608] Welcome to Jamie,
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Welcome Jamie,
You will enjoy this friendly, knowledgeable group.
Nice to have yet another Baren member closeby :) Now there's 3 of us
Baren members within 45 minues or so from each other - that I know of.
I live in Erlanger, Kentucky - just a few minutes away from Ripley.
Warm wishes to you,
Bette Wappner bettewappner#fuse.net
You will enjoy this friendly, knowledgeable group.
Nice to have yet another Baren member closeby :) Now there's 3 of us
Baren members within 45 minues or so from each other - that I know of.
I live in Erlanger, Kentucky - just a few minutes away from Ripley.
Warm wishes to you,
Bette Wappner bettewappner#fuse.net