Today's postings

  1. [Baren 26017] Re: planing the wood block by hand (Thomas Davis)
  2. [Baren 26018] Re: planing the wood block by hand (Mike Lyon)
  3. [Baren 26019] Re: Ref :Exchange themes (L Cass)
  4. [Baren 26020] Re: planing the wood block by hand ("Joseph Sheridan")
  5. [Baren 26021] Exchange Gallery Update (Mike Lyon)
  6. [Baren 26022] Re: planing the wood block by hand (Thomas Davis)
  7. [Baren 26023] Re: Exchange Gallery Update (Julio.Rodriguez # walgreens.com)
  8. [Baren 26024] Re: Exchange Gallery Update ("Bea Gold")
  9. [Baren 26025] Re: Exchange Gallery Update (b.patera # att.net)
  10. [Baren 26026] Re: Exchange Gallery Update ("Matt Laine")
  11. [Baren 26027] limited editions prints, and then more (Emma Jane Hogbin)
  12. [Baren 26028] Re: Exchange Gallery Update (Bette Norcross Wappner)
  13. [Baren 26029] Re: limited editions prints, and then more (FurryPressII # aol.com)
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Message 1
From: Thomas Davis
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 09:36:46 -0400
Subject: [Baren 26017] Re: planing the wood block by hand
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Yes, I am printing using the Japanese method of watercolors.

Thomas

--
Art...the new piece of mind.
http://www.sunsetbrew.com/
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Message 2
From: Mike Lyon
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 09:37:09 -0500
Subject: [Baren 26018] Re: planing the wood block by hand
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Thomas wrote:
>Does anyone have experience with planing the wood blocks by hand? I was
>considering getting a smoothing plan, but I am not sure if that is a dead
>end road. I need to make rough wood smooth enough to carve and print with.

You can plane woodblocks by hand -- but planing requires a high degree of
skill and a good tool well-tuned. It takes about a day (sometimes more) to
tune a new plane and a long time to become proficient with the plane so
that you can produce a shiny-smooth flat surface without ridges or
tear-out. You will probably want to use a "Smooth Plane" for this work --
about 9 or 10 inches long, this is the tool most people think of when they
think "plane".

Scrapers have regained popularity in recent years -- they work differently
than planes (planes shave a thin slice from the surface of the wood,
scrapers 'peel' the surface using a curl or burr on the edge of a long
blade). Scrapers are best for surfacing wood that is already very close to
flat -- they are used after planing and can do a very good job if
well-tuned and kept sharp and evenly burred.

It might be easiest for you to produce a good surface by sanding or by a
combination of planing and sanding.

Here's a good article about sanding -- how it works and how to do it:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00006.asp For Japanese
technique printmaking, sand through 400 grit or finer.

-- Mike


Mike Lyon
Kansas City, Missouri
http://mlyon.com
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Message 3
From: L Cass
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 11:03:02 -0400
Subject: [Baren 26019] Re: Ref :Exchange themes
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I would like to cast my vote for a printmaker &/or poet - Harry's offering
of Blake in particular, contains many 'seeds' or inspirations for designs -
Louise C.
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Message 4
From: "Joseph Sheridan"
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 12:27:00 -0400
Subject: [Baren 26020] Re: planing the wood block by hand
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Thomas

Mike's advice is so true.

I work off cherry blocks with water based pigments. I have purchased planes and I was committed to learn how to do a professional job.
Planing is very difficult and it is a craft in itself. After several attempts to achieve a perfect surface (when two planed surfaces are brought together face to face they are almost impossible to separate) I took my board to a cabinet maker and had him run it through his plane. From that surface I oh so carefully used a scraper and sandpaper. I never did see that perfect look.

HOWEVER MORE IMPORTANT IS THE CHOICE OF BOARD. The smallest curl or knot will change the dynamics of how your color sits on the surface. I could not scrape or rub (using a naga stone) small areas of wood so they would accept color as the other 98% of the surface. So I suggest before you invest time in planing and scraping INVEST time going through boards until you find one that is best for you.

Joe Sheridan
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Message 5
From: Mike Lyon
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 13:06:10 -0500
Subject: [Baren 26021] Exchange Gallery Update
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Happy to announce that the exchange galleries are finally up to date with
Exchange 19 (chuban shunga / erotic) and Exchange #20 (oban no theme) both
on-line and available for your viewing pleasure and comment -- I've changed
the gallery page so that the most recently completed exchange gallery is at
the top: http://www.barenforum.org/exchange/exchanges.html

Each artist's page includes a form at the bottom so you can send the artist
your praise, criticism, suggestions, etc... They generally LOVE to hear
from you, so please take a few moments to respond whenever you have
something to say...

Enjoy!

-- Mike


Mike Lyon
Kansas City, Missouri
http://mlyon.com
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Message 6
From: Thomas Davis
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 14:14:16 -0400
Subject: [Baren 26022] Re: planing the wood block by hand
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Mike Lyon wrote:
> Here's a good article about sanding -- how it works and how to do it:
> http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00006.asp For Japanese
> technique printmaking, sand through 400 grit or finer.
>
> -- Mike

That is a great read. Thank you for that. And thanks for all the
advice everyone.

Thomas
--
Art...the new piece of mind.
http://www.sunsetbrew.com/
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Message 7
From: Julio.Rodriguez # walgreens.com
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 13:49:40 -0500
Subject: [Baren 26023] Re: Exchange Gallery Update
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Hi Mike, thanks for all the hard work getting the images up, both
exchanges are quite impressive. While #19 (Shunga) has its own
peculiarities...I think #20 is one of the most inspiring exchanges ever
both in subject and in the level of work achieved....congratulations to
all the participants...

Julio Rodriguez (Skokie, Illinois)
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Message 8
From: "Bea Gold"
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 12:32:57 -0700
Subject: [Baren 26024] Re: Exchange Gallery Update
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Thanks Mike nice to see our work. Did Enjoy! Bea
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Message 9
From: b.patera # att.net
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 20:24:09 +0000
Subject: [Baren 26025] Re: Exchange Gallery Update
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Wow! You've really been working on those galleries. Thanks for all the time and effort.

Barbara P.
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Message 10
From: "Matt Laine"
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 18:01:48 -0400
Subject: [Baren 26026] Re: Exchange Gallery Update
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Thank you, Mike, for all that work.
Matt Laine
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Message 11
From: Emma Jane Hogbin
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 22:40:38 -0400
Subject: [Baren 26027] limited editions prints, and then more
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Hi everyone,

I'd like to use some of the images from my wood engravings for book
covers. What are the "rules" on re-using an image from a print? If I have
a limited edition print (numbered and signed), am I "allowed" to use the
image on the cover of a book as well? I'd be using Print Gocco for the
book covers.

emma

--
Emma Jane Hogbin
www.xtrinsic.com
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Message 12
From: Bette Norcross Wappner
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 22:35:11 -0400
Subject: [Baren 26028] Re: Exchange Gallery Update
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A great wave of THANKS! to Mike Lyon :D

I appreciate all your hard work. You rock!

Bette Wappner
northern Kentucky
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Message 13
From: FurryPressII # aol.com
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 23:08:08 EDT
Subject: [Baren 26029] Re: limited editions prints, and then more
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I don't see why not. Wood engravings have been used as illustrations in
books and also sold as limited edition prints. You're talking about two
different uses for the print. No one is going to confuse a trade edition or even
limited edition book with a editioned print. In most cases a trade edition in
the mass market may even increase the value of a limited editioned print.
Barry Moser and Fritz Eichenberg are example of this use.

john center