Baren Digest              Thursday, 1 August 2002      Volume 20 : Number 1913


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From: "Lee and Barbara Mason" <bemason@concentric.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 07:12:45 -0700
Subject: [Baren 18830] black lines 

George,
this was so interesting, The ink, or paint must be opaque for this to work.
Do you have any examples on line anywhere that we could see? I would like to
know what these actually look like.
Thanks,
Barbara

> A variation on 'white line' is part of the junior
>high curriculum here in Japan. Except it is 'black line' in that it is
>printed on black paper. Called
>'ichihantashokuhanga': Single plate polychrome hanga, it is printed with the
>paper dry and with
>gouache or poster color as the 'ink'. The classroom
>'kit' is a piece of 4mm x 26cm x 36cm shina veneer
>plywood, some back hanga paper of exactly the same size and some low tack
>masking tape to tape
>the paper to the block for registration. The students use the entire surface
>of the block
>as no kento is neccessary. The paper is very smooth surfaced and sized, like
>a smooth
>torinoko. There are several varieties from real
>washi, to cotton to recycled pulp available.
>The paper is taped to the block down one edge
>where it acts as a hinge. The colors are painted on
>one at a time with a regular watercolor brush.
>Since each color area is relatively small it stays wet until printed with
>the baren. As all the colors are printed before the paper is changed,
>printing
>a consistant edition requires a good memory,
>good color mixing skills and a lot of patience



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From: G Wohlken <blueman@pantek.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 10:29:20 +0000
Subject: [Baren 18831] Black line prints 

George, in order to cover the black well, do you have to apply each  
pigment more than once?  Does the black paper cause a dulling of the 
colors?  Thanks for the information, by the way, this sounds interesting!

Gayle
Ohio USA


>
>A variation on 'white line' is part of the junior
>high curriculum here in Japan. Except it is 'black line' in that it is
>printed on black paper. Called
>'ichihantashokuhanga'
>
>
>




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From: Daniel Dew <ddew@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 15:59:28 -0400
Subject: [Baren 18832] Softer edges 

I am trying to do some prints of underwater animals.
I don't want the standard sharp edges that normally appear on a woodcut.
Any ideas?

Daniel L. Dew
http://www.dandew.com/
ddew@tampabay.rr.com



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From: Lynita Shimizu <Shimizu.nai@rcn.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 16:48:09 -0400
Subject: [Baren 18833] Re: Softer edges 

Daniel,

For softer edges, perhaps you would want to sand or bevel the edges of the
raised surface area.  If your wood can handle it, you might also try using
a U gouge instead of the toh (knife) for the outline edge.

Good luck.  Sounds fun.

Lynita


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End of Baren Digest V20 #1913
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