Baren Digest               Monday, 15 April 2002       Volume 19 : Number 1799


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From: "April Vollmer" <april@aprilvollmer.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 12:24:01 -0400
Subject: [Baren 17865] Another Class 

And let's not forget our own April Vollmer's class in moku hanga:

June 12 to July 17, six Wednesdays.

Lower East Side Printshop, 59-61 East 4th Street, 
NYC, 10003   212-673-5390 
http://www.printshop.org/ 

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From: "Jean Womack" <jeaneger@jeaneger.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 10:13:02 -0700
Subject: [Baren 17866] Re:   Baren Digest V18 #1798 

Marco,
I purchased 13 inch wide bass wood from MacBeath Hardwood on Ashby Avenue in
Berkeley.  It was a long plank, about two inches thick and 13 inches wide.
So I thought I could slice it down to one inch thick when time to use it.  I
had to look around for a place to slice it and found one in El Cerrito,
which is no longer in business.  And it cost quite a bit to do that, also.
Another problem was that it was too wide for an ordinary planer.  Most
ordinary electric planers take 12 inch wide wood--you can buy one in Costco
for about $450 US.  If the wood is bigger, then you need a much bigger
planer.  The "chatter" is a big problem and requires a whole lot of sanding
(so use a mask for that, it's not good for your lungs).  If Graham was here,
he would be able to discuss wood ad infinitum, because we had conversations
about this a few years ago on this forum and he knew the proper term for
slicing wood.

I was "chattering" with my husband while using a Dremel and the Dremel began
to chatter too, and almost dremeled me. Try not to learn this the hard way.

I am still using the bass wood.  It's great wood.

Jean Womack


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From: Mike Lyon <mikelyon@mlyon.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 13:02:32 -0500
Subject: [Baren 17867] Re:   Baren Digest V18 #1798 

Dear Jean,

The proper term for making one 2" thick piece of wood into two thinner 
pieces is "resawing".  It's usually done on a band saw.  Basswood is 
available all over the US in thicknesses from more than 8" down to very 
thin (like 1/8").  A 3/4" plank is a good thickness for up to oban size 
images (10" x 15") as it is generally enough to resist warping during 
printing.  Those rotary thickness planers do an excellent job of thickness 
planing -- currently the 'home work shop' models plane workpieces 12 1/2" 
wide and over than 6" thick.  You still have to surface the plank with a 
good sharp hand plane (or sand through 400 grit or finer) to get a good 
surface for printing moku-hanga.  Most Oily printers won't have to be so 
particular, though, as the oil based inks are designed to be rolled on and 
the ink film is usually MUCH thicker than for moku-hanga.

Mike

PS  I think the other term you wanted may have been was 'ad nauseum' ?

At 10:13 AM 4/14/2002 -0700, you wrote:

>Marco,
>I purchased 13 inch wide bass wood from MacBeath Hardwood on Ashby Avenue in
>Berkeley.  It was a long plank, about two inches thick and 13 inches wide.
>So I thought I could slice it down to one inch thick when time to use it.  I
>had to look around for a place to slice it and found one in El Cerrito,
>which is no longer in business.  And it cost quite a bit to do that, also.
>Another problem was that it was too wide for an ordinary planer.  Most
>ordinary electric planers take 12 inch wide wood--you can buy one in Costco
>for about $450 US.  If the wood is bigger, then you need a much bigger
>planer.  The "chatter" is a big problem and requires a whole lot of sanding
>(so use a mask for that, it's not good for your lungs).  If Graham was here,
>he would be able to discuss wood ad infinitum, because we had conversations
>about this a few years ago on this forum and he knew the proper term for
>slicing wood.
>
>I was "chattering" with my husband while using a Dremel and the Dremel began
>to chatter too, and almost dremeled me. Try not to learn this the hard way.
>
>I am still using the bass wood.  It's great wood.
>
>Jean Womack


Mike Lyon
mailto:mikelyon@mlyon.com
http://www.mlyon.com 


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From: Printmaker <severn@acay.com.au>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 07:31:50 +1000
Subject: [Baren 17868] graphic chemicals 

About a week or so ago I wrote Dean at Graphic Chemicals
with some ink questions. I haven't had any resonse. Anyone
know if he's away or something?

I'm pretty sure I used the correct email addy

josephine

From: "Dan Sabo" <dan@dansabo.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:38:42 -0400
Subject: [Baren 17847] RE: Cherry blocks in the US?


Yes.  Graphic Chemical and Ink Company, Villa Park, IL.

http://www.graphicchemical.net

Dan

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From: juan <viscult@prodigy.net.mx>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:48:22 -0500
Subject: [Baren 17869] Re: Baren Digest V18 #1791 

MINNA SORA:

I was curious to check your page, but every time I try I get a "Not Found"



Juan Guerrero
J. Pilar Ruiz 276
F. del R=EDo.   Morelia
58040   MEXICO
tel/Ph: (443) 320 7273
Alternative e-mail:
2ojos@ozu.es
www.juanguerrero.galeon.com



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End of Baren Digest V18 #1799
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