Baren Digest             Tuesday, 19 September 2000     Volume 12 : Number 1149


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From: LEAFRUTH@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 11:04:17 EDT
Subject: [Baren 11351] Re: Baren Digest V12 #1148 

Another wonderful book written by the author of the "Horses Mouth" is Art and 
Reality  by Joyce Carey.    I don't know if it's still in print but I'm sure 
any of the websites selling used books could get it.  Ruth

http://www.ruthleaf.com


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From: Graham Scholes <gscholes@home.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:34:07 -0700
Subject: [Baren 11353] Re: Baren Digest V12 #1148 

>Another wonderful book written by the author of the "Horses Mouth" is Art and
>Reality  by Joyce Carey.    I don't know if it's still in print but I'm sure
>any of the websites selling used books could get it.  Ruth

To all.

I wonder if I could carry a banner for a moment.
Before "modeming" to the internet bookshop, please give the old 
fashion local corner  book store the opportunity to help you.  I sure 
would not want to loose them as part of the social fabric in a 
community.

My only interest in bookstores is I find them neat places to visit.

Graham



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From: barbara patera <b.patera@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 100 09:49:29 Pacific Daylight Time
Subject: [Baren 11354] Re: bookstores 

Graham,

Lets hear it for bookstores.... I couldn't agree more. Love them... like the way they smell... like to touch  the 
books and when the stores are of the new/used variety you never know what you will find. Bookstores are  one 
of the finest places in the world to spend rainy afternoons.... another plus is that  if you get tired of book 
searching you can always draw the other customers.

Barbara P.

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From: "kate courchaine" <katecourchaine@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 19:06:53 GMT
Subject: [none]

Hello Barenees and Bareneses,

I am experimenting with wood engraving and printed my first block with oil 
based block print ink on a proof press.  It worked, but I have heard of very 
stiff ink being recommended for wood engravings.  Does any one have any ink 
recommendations for wood engravings?  If so where is your favorite source 
for said ink?  Also I was not really sure how to clean the block-so I just 
pressed off the ink.  What do other printers do?

Kate Courchaine

__________________________________________


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From: Don Furst <furstd@uncwil.edu>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 15:41:50 -0400
Subject: [Baren 11356] Re: ink for wood engraving 

Kate,
Try Graphic Chemical's Etching Stiff Black. This stiffer consistency is
less likely to slop into delicate burin-carved lines than a runny relief
ink.    --Don Furst 

 At 07:06 PM 9/18/00 +0000, you wrote:

 >Does any one have any ink 
>recommendations for wood engravings?  


------------------------------

From: "Maria Arango" <maria@mariarango.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 12:41:01 -0700
Subject: [Baren 11357] Re: engraving charset="Windows-1252" 


Standard relief ink is just fine for engravings, the secret is to have a
very thin but even layer. You can stiffen ink a bit with whiting. Also, when
I had trouble printing a delicate block, I received good advice from a lot
of people, but what made the biggest difference was the paper. Andy English
recommended very smooth paper and that did the trick. Experiment with Masa,
a thin smooth and affordable paper. Also, any of the plate finish papers
will give you incredible detail. My personal favorite ink for engravings is
Graphic Chemical, also in that page of suppliers. Rembrandt inks are
incredibly smooth and buttery, I almost want to make a sandwich with them,
but a bit soft for engraving.

I recommend that you get a paper sampler from several suppliers, Dan Smith,
Hiromi, McClain's, and Rembrandt have paper samplers
http://www.printmakingstudio.com/artsupplies.html You are generally looking
for very smooth paper with sizing, the thinner the better.

Cleaning engraving blocks is always a darned shame, because you lose all the
wonderful details. I usually print on newsprint until there the ghost is
almost gone and then I wipe with mineral oil (baby oil). To bring out the
design when I want to show blocks to people, I fill the lines with chalk
dust or with fine saw dust, then I seal the block with acrylic spray. They
look like tiny works of art themselves, I've been thinking about oil
painting the block once I'm done with the edition. Ooops, sorry Dave, I said
the 'ed-word' ;-)

Do visit Andy's site for more information and a wonderful collection of his
work.
http://freespace.virgin.net/a.english/print.htm

Health to all,
Maria

<><><><><><><><><><><><>
Maria Arango, Printmaker
Las Vegas  Nevada  USA
http://www.1000woodcuts.com
maria@mariarango.com
<><><><><><><><><><><><>


------------------------------

From: "Tyrus Clutter" <TRClutter@NNU.Edu>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:46:04 -0600
Subject: [Baren 11358] Re: engraving 

One of my former professors actually does make the blocks into their own =
new work of art after he finishes his editions. HE cuts up his woodcuts =
(usually consisting of human and animal forms) and then assembles them a =
thick relief collage/assemblage sculpture which is wall mounted. The =
blocks, prints and eventual "scultpures" are not ever very large. His =
style is akin to Baskin and I've always almost enjoyed the blocks more =
than the prints!
TyRuS

><~><~><~><~><~><~><~><~><~><
Prof. Tyrus Clutter
Director of Friesen Art Galleries
Dept. of Art & Music
Northwest Nazarene University
623 Holly St.
Nampa, Idaho  83686
TRClutter@NNU.edu
(208) 467-8398


Standard relief ink is just fine for engravings, the secret is to have a
very thin but even layer. You can stiffen ink a bit with whiting. Also, =
when
I had trouble printing a delicate block, I received good advice from a lot
of people, but what made the biggest difference was the paper. Andy =
English
recommended very smooth paper and that did the trick. Experiment with =
Masa,
a thin smooth and affordable paper. Also, any of the plate finish papers
will give you incredible detail. My personal favorite ink for engravings =
is
Graphic Chemical, also in that page of suppliers. Rembrandt inks are
incredibly smooth and buttery, I almost want to make a sandwich with them,
but a bit soft for engraving.

I recommend that you get a paper sampler from several suppliers, Dan =
Smith,
Hiromi, McClain's, and Rembrandt have paper samplers
http://www.printmakingstudio.com/artsupplies.html You are generally =
looking
for very smooth paper with sizing, the thinner the better.

Cleaning engraving blocks is always a darned shame, because you lose all =
the
wonderful details. I usually print on newsprint until there the ghost is
almost gone and then I wipe with mineral oil (baby oil). To bring out the
design when I want to show blocks to people, I fill the lines with chalk
dust or with fine saw dust, then I seal the block with acrylic spray. They
look like tiny works of art themselves, I've been thinking about oil
painting the block once I'm done with the edition. Ooops, sorry Dave, I =
said
the 'ed-word' ;-)

Do visit Andy's site for more information and a wonderful collection of =
his
work.
http://freespace.virgin.net/a.english/print.htm=20

Health to all,
Maria

<><><><><><><><><><><><>
Maria Arango, Printmaker
Las Vegas  Nevada  USA
http://www.1000woodcuts.com=20
maria@mariarango.com=20
<><><><><><><><><><><><>



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From: "Robert Canaga" <rcg@robertcanagagallery.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:07:36 -0700
Subject: [Baren 11359] Re:  charset="iso-8859-1" 

Try Charbonel(sic) pencil black or actualy any of their inks. Litho inks
work best as they are stiff, very dense, and as you work them they become
softer, you get that nice hissing sound when you roll them up.
Robert

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From: "pwalls1234" <pwalls1234@i-55.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 19:23:41 -0500
Subject: [Baren 11360] Re: bookstores charset="iso-8859-1" 

Books in a store???  What is that all about??

There is nothing quite like ordering that book you just thought about at
3:47am.  I must not be old fashioned enough for Graham and comapny.

pete
baton rouge

;-)


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From: "Maria Arango" <maria@mariarango.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 18:16:41 -0700
Subject: [Baren 11361] Re: bookstores charset="iso-8859-1" 

Pete wrote:
> There is nothing quite like ordering that book you just thought about at
> 3:47am.  
May I add??? ....in the comfort of my underwear?
sorry soorry soooorrry
Self-Banned for the day,
Maria

<><><><><><><><><><><><>
Maria Arango, Printmaker
Las Vegas  Nevada  USA
http://www.1000woodcuts.com
maria@mariarango.com
<><><><><><><><><><><><>


------------------------------

From: Chris Bremmer <cbremmer@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 18:35:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 11362] Which waterbased ink to use? 

Hello,

I've seen a couple different companies with waterbased
woodcut ink, and am wondering if anyone has had any success
in using these?

I've tried Speedball but am looking for something a little
more greasy, or slower drying. I haven't tried Speedball's
extender yet.

Thanks,
Chris


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From: Vollmer/Yamaguchi <jy6@columbia.edu>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 22:07:19 -0400
Subject: [Baren 11364] Crude American 

I loved hearing about Ruth Leaf's opening! Congratulations and thanks for
writing a report Maria, I look forward to the pics on Baren suji. Can I
send you a pic of me with Kat Pulkas and Lezle Williams? What's the next
deadline?

I think Dave is calling me crude! ;-) I'll never notice the finer points of
cutting with my coarse lines! Insulting the character of my blocks,
too...mere plywood he says! Ah well, not for me the fine boxwood of...which
Japanese island has the best boxwood? I'm just a simple American girl,
doing my best with plain old shina ply!

Thanks for clarifying the finer points of cutting, Dave. The web photos are
very helpful. I'll continue to tell people to cut with the bevel toward the
color area, at least for now.

Any word on cheap barens anyone? I'm trying to get folks interested in this
technique, but the big barrier is the expense of tools, especially barens.
(Lee Valley has the cheapest Japanese cutting tools if anyone is looking.)

April Vollmer
174 Eldridge St, NYC 10002, 212-677-5691
http://www.aprilvollmer.com



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From: barbara patera <b.patera@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 100 20:19:56 Pacific Daylight Time
Subject: [Baren 11365] bookstores 

O.K., O.K.....differing habits for 3:47 a.m. are emerging.... around here it's the back deck "Coon and Possum" 
show.... Leave the bookbuying for later in the day cause I get a kick out of ruffling pages and stroking bindings. 
And there is always the lure of finding a gem .... my best to date is a small book (diary of his stay in Alaska) 
written  by ,and illustrated with  the woodcuts  of, Rockwell Kent.

Barbara P.

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From: Graham Scholes <gscholes@home.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 23:46:31 -0700
Subject: [Baren 11368] Re: Crude American 

>Any word on cheap barens anyone? I'm trying to get folks interested in this
>technique, but the big barrier is the expense of tools, especially barens.
>(Lee Valley has the cheapest Japanese cutting tools if anyone is looking.)
>

April,

I was thinking about the barens that John Roots was developing the other day.
I thought he would have finished with the project in Edmonton by 
now..... alas not so.

I sure hope he gets back into the swing of things here soon.
I just printed 25 sheet of a 20 colour image and I can assure you 
that the barens he made for me to test were superb.
As soon as I hear I will let you know.

Lee Valley and Japanese cutting tools.....????
I have their newest catalogue and will a a serious looky lou.

Graham

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End of Baren Digest V12 #1149
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